Sardines hold a special place in the heart of Portuguese culture. More than just a delectable fish, sardines embody centuries of history, tradition, stories of resilience, and craftsmanship. From the smoky aroma wafting through Lisbon streets during the revered Saint Anthony’s festivals to their role in sustaining Roman diets, sardines are deeply woven into the Portuguese way of life.

We will take you on a flavorful and historical voyage as we uncover the legacy, traditions, and culinary magic behind this humble fish.

By the end of this article, you will find a step-by-step guide on grilling sardines Portuguese-style, ensuring you achieve that authentic smoky, savory magic every time!

A Journey Back in Time: Sardines in Portuguese Food History

Sardines in the Roman Era and the Garum of Olissipo

A former young guest trying sardine garum during our food experience

The love affair with sardines in Portugal traces back to Roman times when the city of Olissipo (modern-day Lisbon) was a bustling hub of trade, culture, and even culinary innovation! Sardines were a prized commodity, not only as a food source but also as a key ingredient in garum, a fermented fish sauce, compared to the best perfume, in terms of price during the ancient Roman Empire. This delicacy is now so rare, that only a few places in the world produce garum.

The waters surrounding Olissipo were teeming with life. Fish of all kinds were caught daily. Sardines and other small fish (mackerel and anchovies), held particular importance. Abundant and easy to catch, but also easily perishable, they became a staple for locals and a prized ingredient for garum. Sardines and other small-sized fish were fermented in clay pots under the Iberian sun to produce this savory delicacy, sought after across the Mediterranean.

Even if the origins of garum trace back to the Greeks, who introduced fish fermentation techniques to their culinary repertoire, the Romans adopted and perfected the process, elevating garum to its legendary status, and the Olissipo ‘terroir’ (sea waters, sun, air humidity) was the perfect environment.

Despite the fact that production of garum eventually died and, for many centuries, it was simply not available, now-a-days near Lisbon you can again taste this powerful flavor bomb, available literally at only a couple of places, which we introduce you to during our Umami and Garum Lisbon Food Tour.

Discovering Lisbon’s Iconic Fishwives 

Close your eyes and picture Alfama in the 19th century – if you participate on our food tour in Alfama, you will remember this line. The streets buzz with life as ‘varinas’, the fishwives, skillfully balance baskets of fresh fish on their heads, calling out in vibrant, melodic cries to advertise their catch. The varinas weren’t just vendors; they were symbols of resilience and grit, working tirelessly to provide for their families.

These women came from humble fishing communities, often working under harsh conditions. Their voices, strong and expressive, filled the alleys of Alfama with chants and calls that were far more than just practical announcements. For many families, the varinas were the primary breadwinners, selling fish from dawn till dusk and embodying a resilience that became a defining feature of Alfama life.

Sardines were one of the most common fish in their baskets. Among other fish, sardines’ affordability and availability played a role in their enduring popularity, serving as a staple dish for generations of Portuguese families. “Behold the finest sardine, behold the golden sardine” as they cryed. (‘Olha a rica sardinha, olha a sardinha que é ouro’).

For decades, it was considered working class fare. Today, however, it crosses all class and age barriers. It’s elegantly served at fancy restaurants or eaten in the streets, during festivals.

Canned Sardines and Portuguese Ingenuity

As we know, fishing communities along Portugal’s rugged coastline have been harvesting sardines since as far back as the Roman Empire. Always looking for ways to preserve them, Portuguese canned sardines are sought after across the globe for their top-notch quality, traditional production methods, and delightful flavors.

Over time, preserving sardines (and other seafood) in beautifully designed tins became a method not just to extend shelf life but to share the country’s abundance with faraway places (similar to what happened with the codfish).

Canned sardines are a global export and a significant cultural emblem for Portugal. Brands like “Pinhais”, “Conservas de Portugal” or “José Gourmet” offer high-quality canned sardines that are not only a preservation method but a cultural storytelling.

Why Are Sardines so Popular in Portugal?

Sardines hold a special place in Portuguese culture. So much so that Portuguese immigrants in France are known as  ‘sardines’. Portugal, such a tiny country, consumes the third highest amount of fish per capita in the world. Sardines represent half of the fish arriving at Portuguese marketplaces and markets.

From bustling coastal towns to lively summer festivals like Lisbon’s Festa de Santo António, grilled sardines are a centerpiece of celebration. They are affordable, sustainable, and packed with flavor. But it’s not just about taste. Sardines are also incredibly nutritious, rich in omega-3 fatty acids, protein, and essential vitamins like B12 and D.

The people have paid it tribute through ceremonies and provers, but also Fado. Amália Rodrigues sang about them in one of her greatest songs, “Lisboa à Noite”.

Where Do Sardines Come From in Portugal?

Sardines thrive in the chilly, nutrient-rich waters of the Atlantic Ocean, particularly along the Portuguese coastline. The abundant currents create the ideal environment for sardines to flourish, making Portugal one of the leading countries for sardine fishing. From the Algarve in the south to the northern shores of Porto, sardines are an integral part of the coastal economy and culture.

Curiosity: sardine is not a common or abundant species in the Portuguese Azores or Madeira islands, even though these islands are a feast for fish lovers, with many other species caught sustainably.

Nutritional Benefits of Sardines

I often we go to Costa da Caparica area just to watch fishermen and bring home some fresh fish right from the beach

Sardines are considered one of the most nutritious fish you can eat. Packed with omega-3 fatty acids, calcium, vitamin D, and protein, sardines contribute to heart health, strong bones, and overall well-being.

Unlike bigger fish like tuna, sardines are low on the food chain.. On the other hand, their life span is short, since it’s a fish that enjoys swimming in deep water, near the shore. Unlike other fish, they don’t accumulate harmful levels of mercury or toxins like larger fish do
This makes sardines one of the safest seafood options for regular consumption.

Beyond their rich nutritional profile, sardines provide several specific health benefits backed by research: heart health boost, support for strong bones, brain and cognitive benefits and weight management. It further also plays an important role in mental health, thus hindering the development of Alzheimer’s and the risk of Parkinson’s disease.

This image strikes me each time I look at it. I was exactly where me and my mother bought fish when I was 5 yo. To this same ladies. A street we cross so many times now with many of you.

High-quality Portuguese sardine 

Since 2010 the sardine caught on the Portuguese Coast has been quality certified: 95% of natural production is blue labelled by the Marine Stewarship Council, an international non-governamental organization. It’s the only organisation with a worldwide fish certification programme. Its main goal is to report on over-fishing and simultaneously enhance the marine source sustainability.

Seasonal sardines: fat, firm and juicy but not eternal. 

We normally say that a Portuguese knows summer is coming when the smell of grilled sardines fills the air. When we rarely think about fish as a seasonal product, what can be more seasonal than this?

So when is sardine season in Portugal? Portuguese sardine season happens in the warmer months, approximately between late May and early September, when sardine is fat, fine and tasty. Through the generations, the saying was we couldn’t eat sardines in months with the letter ‘R’ (Janeiro, Março, Abril, Setembro, Novembro, Dezembro).

But here’s the catch (pun intended): over the past few decades, Portugal’s sardine population has plummeted. Climate change and overfishing are pushing these fish further north, as warming Atlantic waters make their traditional habitats less hospitable. Younger sardines, which are particularly vulnerable to environmental changes, are struggling to thrive. Without them, replenishing the population becomes nearly impossible. It’s a harsh reality for a small fish with such a big legacy.

To combat this decline, the Portuguese government has introduced strict fishing quotas. Sardine fishing is also prohibited from October to April, coinciding with their reproductive season. This seasonal ban gives them a chance to spawn and, hopefully, bounce back. But despite these efforts, it’s becoming clear that we might need to think outside the can (sorry, we couldn’t resist).

Sardines are quick to cook

As we will see, with minimal preparation and cook time, sardines offer a hassle-free, gourmet-quality meal in under 15 minutes – much less than the time we need to write this guide! It’s all about the quality of the product, simplicity and a skilled griller!

Are Sardines Right for Everyone? 

While sardines are a nutritional powerhouse, they may not work for everyone. People with seafood allergies or sensitivities should avoid them. Additionally, their sodium content can be high depending on the brand, so be mindful if you’re watching your sodium intake. If you book one of our tours, you can be sure we will cater your allergies or dietary restictions which can include, no fish, no lactose, no gluten, and others.

Mastering the Art of Grilling and Eating Sardines Portuguese-Style 

Few things capture the essence of Portuguese cuisine better than fresh sardines kissed by an open flame. These silvery gems, known as “sardinhas” in Portuguese, are a national treasure and a staple on summer tables. Grilling them to perfection is not just a cooking technique; it’s an art form steeped in tradition, simplicity, and bold flavors.

Fresh sardines, ready to be grilled, in Alfama during the Popular Saints festivities.

Whether you’re planning a backyard barbecue or simply looking for a new recipe to try, we will guide you through the process of grilling sardines Portuguese-style, ensuring you achieve that authentic smoky, savory magic every time.

Traditionally served with crusty bread or boiled potatoes and a fresh drizzle of olive oil, sardines bring people together through the simple act of sharing a meal.

Now, let’s talk about how to prepare and grill these little delights, just as they would in the heart of Portugal.

Choosing the Perfect Sardines 

The key to mastering Portuguese grilling begins before you light the fire. It starts with selecting high-quality sardines.

1. Go Fresh: 

Fresh sardines are your best bet for a flavorful outcome. Look for bright, shiny skin, clear eyes, and a clean ocean scent. A Portuguese local will tell you ‘never buy or eat frozen sardines’ and in fact, once you try the fat and juicy seasonal sardines, you prefer to wait for the next season, patiently! But, if in any case you opt for frozen sardines (either in Portugal, or where you are living) ensure they’re properly thawed before grilling.

2. Opt for Medium-Sized Fish:

There a popular saying that states “A mulher e a sardinha, quer-se pequenina” (Woman and sardines: all lovely when small). Small sardines in Portugal are named ‘petingas’ and they are delicious fried. To grill choose sardines that are roughly 6-8 inches in length. These are ideal for grilling as they cook evenly and maintain their natural juiciness.

3. Don’t Remove the Skin or Head:

Authentic Portuguese grilling keeps the skin, scales, and head intact. This not only locks in flavor but also prevents the fish from sticking to the grill. The same for the offal, since sardines are not ‘cleaned’. This requires, of course, some expertise when eating them, but the prize is to have a grilled sardine which keeps most of its natural fat and therefore it’s juicy and delicious.

Preparing Your Sardines 

Grilling sardines Portuguese-style is all about minimal fuss and maximum flavor. You won’t need elaborate marinades; simplicity is key.

Clean (But Don’t Over-Clean): Just before you cook them, give the fish a quick rinse under cold water, but leave the scales and skin untouched as well as the offal inside. If desired, you can gut the sardines, but many purists (or shall we say, all Portuguese?) prefer to leave them whole.

Season Lightly: The beauty of Portuguese-style sardines lies in their natural flavors. A sprinkle of coarse salt on each side is all you need, 20 minutes before. Salt is the real MVP here as it helps crisp up the skin while adding depth to the flavor.

To avoid sticking, you can also place them on a fish-friendly grilling basket for easier handling.

Setting Up Your Grill for the Perfect Sear 

The hallmark of Portuguese sardine grilling is the smoky aroma, which comes from cooking them directly over high heat, often on an open flame. Here’s how to replicate that setup at home.

Preheat the Grill to High Heat: Traditionally, Portuguese sardines are grilled on charcoal or wood-fired grills. Achieving the same effect on a gas grill is possible if you incorporate cedar planks or wood chips. But, in order to strictly comply with tradition, the charcoal is lit with pinecones and pine needles. It is kindled with a match, since oil-impregnated firelighters can spoil the sardines’ flavour. Then the coal is left to work its magic: turning silver into gold. Make sure the grill is piping hot (approximately 450-500°F). Sardines cook quickly, and high heat ensures you get that iconic crispy skin without overcooking the meat.

Avoid Sticking: To prevent your sardines from sticking to the grill, be sure the grill is very hot and allow some time to cook before you flip it (sardines should only be flipped once!). You can also place them on a fish-friendly grilling basket for easier handling.

Step-by-Step Guide to Grilling Sardines 

With your grill preheated and sardines prepped, you’re ready to bring the flavors of Portugal to your plate.

1. Arrange Sardines on the Grill: Place sardines directly on the hot grill in a single layer, leaving space between each fish. For extra smokiness, sprinkle a few fresh bay leaves over the coals or flames.
2. Grill Time: Cook the sardines for 2-3 minutes on each side. You’ll know they’re ready to flip when the skin develops a golden, blistered crust and easily lifts from the grates. Avoid overcooking, as sardines can dry out quickly. If the charcoal sets the grill on fire, never throw water! Keep the ashes from the previous day. They are excellent for controlling the flames. Water is for amateurs, as the masters in the art of grilling sardines say.
3. Flip Gently: Use tongs or a spatula to flip the fish. Their skin is delicate, so handle with care to prevent tearing. The mastery is about turning them only once.
4. Test for Doneness: The sardines should be opaque and flake easily with a fork. A slight char on the ends is perfectly fine, adding to the texture and flavor.

Serving Sardines the Portuguese Way 

Grilled sardines are best enjoyed hot off the grill. Here’s how they’re traditionally served in Portugal to complete the experience.

Grilled sardines paired with sparkling green wine

The Bread – Sardines bed

“Sardines without bread is how a thief is fed” (Sardinha sem pão é comer de ladrão) say the populars.

The sardine must drip its fat onto something. On the warm evenings of the popular saints, a sardine on a slice of bread is a never-neglected tradition. But the same goes when you eat it at restaurants – even if it’s served on a plate, it will soon be transferred to a slice of bread. In the north, the corn bread prevails; in the south it is the wheat bread from the Alentejo. In Lisbon a more rustic wheat bread. Thick and richly textured, the bread does not let the fat drain.

The Grilled peppers

Before the fish goes on the grill, this vegetable has the honor of meeting the fire. It’s grilled, allowed to cool (in a closed plastic bag,  so it becomes easier to peel the skin) and then washed under running water (if you manage, don’t use water, or use just little, to keep the smoky taste). Seasoned with salt and olive oil, and it’s served alone, or in combination with garlic and onions, or lettuce and tomato.

A glass of ‘Vinho Verde’ (green wine)

Complete the meal with a chilled glass of Portugal’s famous Vinho Verde wine, known for its light, zesty profile that complements seafood beautifully. In this article you will find our favorite suggestions.

How to Eat a Grilled Sardine Like a Local

“Sardinha e galinha só com a mãosinha”
Sardines and chicken, must be hand-eaten.

Eating grilled sardines in Portugal is an immersive, hands-on experience. One’s fingers are used as pincers, pricking the skin, pulling the meat off, and taking it straight to the mouth. There is no way to get around the bones. And there is no better way to relish a sardine.

This is so important, that, during the summer months, once we serve grilled sardines on our Original Lisbon Food Wine Tour, we include a workshop on “how to eat sardines like a Portuguese”! We have so many guests who after this experience, share how different it was to enjoy sardines this way: much easier to avoid the bones and tastier because they’ve tried with the smoky skin.

Nothing compares to a lived experience, but since you are here, here go some tips: start by laying the sardine on a thick slice of bread, which soaks up the flavorful juices. Then, your fingers or, expertly, the front of your tooth,, strip away the tender meat from the bones. Do not peel off the skin, as it contains the best fat, the salt and the crunchiness. Be careful to avoid the belly since it contains the guts. Repeat until the fish is gone, and savor every bite in true Portuguese fashion. Don’t forget that the bread, now imbued with smoky oils, is an essential part of the meal. You can soak it in the salad juices – olive oil, vinegar – put some onion on top, or even use it for the next sardine!

Sardines are synonymous with simplicity, flavor, and festivity in Portugal. They’re a national icon celebrated during the lively Saint Anthony festivals, where streets are adorned with colorful decorations, and the smell of grilled sardines fills the air.

A foggy day following fishermen. We see the tractor that pull the fish nets from the ocean.

Article by :

Sílvia Olivença (anthropologist and food guide/CEO at Oh! My Cod Ethnographic Food Tours & Trips)

Photos by:

Sílvia Olivença (anthropologist and food guide/CEO at Oh! My Cod Ethnographic Food Tours & Trips)

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