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Tasteory - Food And Culture Journal

MADEIRA ISLAND FOOD AND WINE GUIDE FOR TRAVELERS (2025 EDITION)

Village with red-roofed houses and church set against lush, forested mountains.

Many would have already heard about Madeira because of its namesake wine (vinho da Madeira), or for being the birthplace of ultra popular football player Cristiano Ronaldo. But, as one can easily imagine, the islands have a lot more to offer!

This Portuguese archipelago out in the Atlantic, about 1000 kilometers from the mainland, is volcanic, green, and full of hillsides which are home to banana plantations as well as terraces with vineyards. Life in the middle of the ocean means the islands’ food culture is shaped by the sea and by adaptation to the surroundings, but it’s also intrinsically linked to centuries of trade routes and migration as, for a long time, Madeira was a stopover for sailors and explorers crossing oceans.

The archipelago is made up of four main groups of islands: Madeira (the largest and most populated), Porto Santo (known for its golden beaches), and the uninhabited Desertas and Selvagens islands, which are protected nature reserves. Most visitors base themselves on the island of Madeira itself, particularly in and around Funchal, the lively capital city, where you’ll find historic wine lodges, farmers’ markets, bakeries, and restaurants ranging from rustic to fine dining. But there’s much more to explore: Câmara de Lobos, a fishing village famous for its poncha and seafood; Santana, known for its traditional thatched houses and rural food traditions; and Calheta or São Vicente, where new generation winemakers and farm-to-table projects are blossoming. Each region has its own microclimate, and sometimes, even some specific food customs. For travelers interested in food, wine, and culture, getting out of Funchal and exploring the island’s valleys, coasts, and highlands is highly recommended!

The roots of Madeira’s food culture

Madeira’s food culture is directly shaped by its geography. The volcanic soil, steep terrain, and subtropical climate make farming possible throughout the entire year. Terraces cut into the cliffs are used for everything from grapevines to banana trees, and the irrigation channels built centuries ago (known in Portuguese as levadas), move water from the wetter north to the drier south. What hikers now see as scenic trails were originally built as a lifeline that made large-scale agriculture possible on the islands.

When the Portuguese settled Madeira in the 15th century, they brought wheat, vines, and livestock. Sugar cane followed, quickly turning the island into one of Europe’s first sugar powerhouses, at a time when sugar was still considered a luxury. This crop shaped not just the landscape but also the economy, introducing enslaved labor from Africa and linking Madeira’s destiny to the Atlantic trade routes that stretched to Brazil and the Caribbean. Bananas, passionfruit, custard apples, and other tropical fruits later joined the island’s list of staples, making the markets here more tropical than stereotypically European.

Generations of Madeirans have built a food culture that is practical and naturally tied to the islands’ resources. Skewers of meat grilled over laurel wood, garlic flatbread (bolo do caco) served straight from the griddle, limpets cooked with a squeeze of lemon, or the pairing of banana with black scabbardfish (which some visitors at first may find odd, but generally end up loving), are just some examples of a food culture that is unmistakably Madeiran, more than Portuguese in the traditional sense.

What to eat in Madeira

Madeira dishes from the land

Bolo do caco | Madeira’s flatbread

Bolo do caco is Madeira’s signature flatbread, recognizable for its round shape and the way it’s cooked directly on a hot stone or griddle, a technique that likely dates back to the early settlers of the 15th century who adapted baking methods to volcanic resources. While wheat was scarce on the islands, sweet potatoes grew easily in the rich soil and were mixed into the dough, giving the bread the soft texture it is known for, as well as a little sweetness. Bolo means “cake,” referring to its rounded form, while caco refers to the basalt slab traditionally used for baking over embers. Unlike other Portuguese breads, which are usually oven baked resulting in a thick crust, bolo do caco is unique to the Madeira archipelago and has become so emblematic that it’s hard to imagine a local meal without it. Today it is eaten everywhere, often served warm with garlic butter or split open for a prego no bolo do caco, that is, a steak sandwich where the juices of the meat are soaked perfectly by the soft crumb of the bread. Luckily, these days, you can also find meaty sandwiches in bolo do caco in Lisbon and other parts of mainland Portugal, as the foods from the Portuguese islands, Madeira but also Azores (which has incredible food and unique volcanic wines in Pico!), are becoming more widely appreciated all over the country.

Milho frito | fried polenta

Milho frito is one of Madeira’s most beloved side dishes It consists of golden cubes of fried cornmeal that are quite simple, but tell the history of the island, namely of the introduction of maize to Madeira in the 16th century, when new crops arrived from the Americas through Portuguese trade routes. Cornmeal became a staple for rural communities, especially in areas where wheat (until then, the preferred cereal by mainlanders) was harder to grow, and locals turned it into a porridge cooked slowly with garlic, bay leaves, and sometimes cabbage or collard greens for extra flavor. Once cooled and firm, the porridge is cut into squares or rectangles and fried until crisp on the outside and soft inside. Though you’ll find versions of fried polenta in Italy or xerém in the Algarve, Madeira’s milho frito is distinctive in both its preparation and its cultural role. For instance, it is inseparable from grilled meat dishes like espetada, where baskets of fried cubes are passed around the table. Many Madeirans will tell you the trick to good milho frito is letting it rest for hours before frying, so it doesn’t fall apart in the pan. Even if you don’t end up eating it as a side dish, we’d recommend ordering as a snack or appetizer, as the salty crunchy cubes go so well with a cold drink after a day exploring Madeira’s natural beauty on foot!

Sopa de trigo | wheat soup

Sopa de trigo is a rural slowly cooked wheat soup, which was once upon a time a staple of the farming communities of the islands. Unlike bread, which relied on imported wheat and was sometimes scarce, this soup made full use of the grain itself, simmered for hours with beans, vegetables, and pork to create a thick, filling meal in a bowl. Families in the mountains would put it on the fire in the morning and let it cook gently until lunchtime, feeding large households with whatever was available from the fields on that day. That’s why the recipe tends to vary considerably, and it may include sweet potato or pumpkin for a sweet touch, as well as chouriço or other Portuguese cured meats (enchidos) for depth of flavor. It’s a recipe that clearly follows a zero waste mentality, as basically anything nutritious enough goes! Unfortunately, you won’t come across sopa de trigo in typical tourist menus. While traveling around Madeira, you may be lucky to see it appear in specific local festivals or, at the most, small eateries off the main track.  It is usually served in generous portions, and it goes very well with a glass of house wine.

Sopa de tomate à moda da Madeira | Madeira’s tomato soup

Sopa de tomate e cebola com ovo escalfado is one of Madeira’s most iconic comfort foods, a humble soup that combines ripe tomatoes with slowly caramelized onions, topped off with a poached egg platted on top of the soup just before digging in. It’s one of those simple dishes that makes very good use of whatever households had available and could afford, but that carries a good dose of warmth and familiarity that make it special, reminding us of traditional food from the Alentejo. Today, you can find traditional tomato soup from Madeira in rustic taverns and popular street parties in some villages, usually topped with fresh herbs and a drizzle of olive oil, and pretty much always served with a piece of bread which you can use to soak up the runny egg yolk.

Espetadas em pau de louro | beef on bay laurel skewers

Espetada em pau de louro is perhaps Madeira’s most well-known meat dish, at least in mainland Portugal. Large chunks of beef are skewered onto sticks of bay laurel, seasoned with nothing more than salt, garlic, and sometimes olive oil. They are then grilled over open flames until they become charred outside but remain juicy inside. Back in the day, the islands were covered in dense laurisilva forests, and locals figured that bay wood gave the meat a fragrant smoke, infusing it with a subtle flavor that has become synonym with Madeiran grilled beef dishes. Madeiran skewers are typically served with fried cornmeal cubes (milho frito) and/or fresh bolo do caco, perfect for soaking up the juices of the meat. Unlike many traditional dishes that remain tied to home kitchens, espetada has become very popular in restaurants, so this one you’ll easily come across no matter where you go in the Madeira.

Picado | Madeira style beef with garlic sauce

Picado is Madeira’s answer to “food for sharing”, aka petiscos, consisting of a platter of small beef cubes sautéed with garlic, white wine, and herbs, then covered with a mountain of fries. The whole dish arrives on one large plate, and everyone at the table digs in with forks, sharing directly from the center, turning the meal (or snack time) super social. Though originally made with beef, there are variations of picado (also sometimes known as picadinho) which now include chicken or even octopus, but the spirit is the same: this is a dish designed for groups of friends at casual eateries or family celebrations. You won’t typically see picado in fine dining contexts as this is the kind of food that tascas or simple restaurants would generally serve.

Carne de vinha d’alhos | marinated pork with wine and garlic

Carne de vinha d’alhos is one of Madeira’s most emblematic meat dishes, a recipe that goes back centuries and even left its mark on cuisines far beyond the islands. The dish consists of pork marinated in a mixture of wine (vinho), garlic (alho), bay leaves, and vinegar before being slowly cooked until tender. This method came about not only because it preserved the meat in the era before refrigeration, but also because it infused it with strong delicious flavors. Traditionally, it is most associated with Christmas, when families would prepare large batches to share during the holiday season, but it also shows up during the rest of the year as a sandwich filling, tucked into crusty bread rolls and sold at local eateries. Its importance doesn’t stop at Madeira, as carne de vinha d’alhos is perceived to be the ancestor of the now famous Indian dish vindaloo, developed in Goa after the Portuguese arrived to this part of Asia. If you were to eat only one dish that is very representative of Madeira’s cuisine, this could be it!

 

Madeira’s most iconic fish and seafood dishes

Caldo de peixe & sopa de peixe | fish broth and fish soup

While very similar, we should make a distinction between caldo de peixe and sopa de peixe. Caldo de peixe is the lighter of the two, being a fisherman’s broth made with whatever the nets bring in, using heads, bones, and less prized cuts simmered slowly with onions, tomatoes, peppers, and herbs. Potatoes or slices of bread are often added directly into the bowl, turning a simple broth into a meal that once upon a time fed whole households along the coast. It’s rustic, frugal, and it reflects a time when nothing from the catch could go to waste. Sopa de peixe, on the other hand, is heartier and more elaborate. It often features chunks of fish flesh along with vegetables, sometimes enriched with rice or pasta, making it a more substantial dish that could stand alone as a main course. Both are staples of village gatherings and small taverns, and both showcase the same principle of transforming the unpredictable results of a day at sea into comforting food.

Lapas grelhadas & cracas | grilled Limpets and barnacles

If there’s a taste that immediately connects you to the Atlantic when we’re talking about Portuguese food from the islands, that is probably lapas grelhadas, that is limpets, more often than not grilled in their shells with garlic, butter, and a squeeze of lemon, brought to the table still sizzling in a metal pan. This happens in Madeira and the Azores alike. Harvested off the rocky coast, limpets have long been a staple for coastal families who gathered them at low tide, and today they remain one of the most popular seafood dishes on the islands, even though they have become way more scarce and pricey in recent decades. Eating involves a little ritual, as you have to pluck the flesh straight from the shell, soak up the garlicky juices with a piece of bread, and chase it down with a cold drink, such as a Madeiran Coral beer (see below).

Alongside lapas, another specialty shows just how adventurous Madeiran seafood can get. We’re talking about cracas, known in English as barnacles, and that should not be mistaken with goose barnacles (in Portuguese percebes), as they are indeed quite different. Cracas are less common than limpets on menus because they are harder to collect and, thus, they are considered even a rarer delicacy. They are appreciated for their briny intensity and chewy texture, that’s closer to the essence of the sea than to conventional shellfish.

Caramujos | periwinkles

Caramujos, the tiny sea snails you’ll see sold in paper cones or small bowls at Madeira’s seaside bars, are one of those foods that show how nothing from the Atlantic goes to waste. Collected from the rocks at low tide, these periwinkles are simply boiled in salted water with herbs like oregano or thyme, then eaten with the help of a pin or toothpick to pry out the little morsel of meat, just like we do with snails (caracóis) in mainland Portugal. They’re not a main meal but a snack, the kind of thing you order to share with friends over drinks, much like lupin beans (tremoços) in other parts of Portugal.

Atum | tuna dishes in Madeira

Tuna has for a long time been one of the main elements of Madeira’s relationship with the sea, being a staple of daily diets as well as a driver of the island’s fishing economy. The surrounding Atlantic waters are rich in tuna species, and for generations Madeiran fishermen have set out in small boats to chase them, later expanding into larger fleets that connected the islands with global markets. Like in the Azores, tuna is a prized catch here, but while the Azores are known internationally for industrial tuna canning and export, Madeira’s identity with tuna remains smaller and decidedly more local. You can walk into any given neighborhood restaurant and chances are you’ll find at least one tuna dish on the menu, often prepared in a straightforward way, like most of the iconic dishes of the islands are usually prepared.

One of the most popular tuna dishes in Madeira is bife de atum com milho frito, that is, a seared tuna steak served with fried cornmeal cubes. This is, for sure, one of Madeira’s signature meals and one we would recommend not skipping to better understand what local food is all about. Another classic is atum de cebolada, where the tuna is stewed gently with onions, garlic, tomato, and vinegar until the fish absorbs the sweet and sour flavors of the sauce. But there are even more variations, as some homes serve it as a salad with tuna preserved in olive oil and vinegar, and others prepare it grilled and sprinkled with coarse salt, keeping it as plain as possible to let the fish speak for itself. For Madeirans, tuna is a staple protein more than a luxury, but for those of us visiting, enjoying incredibly fresh tuna fished straight from the Atlantic surely feels like a true indulgence!

Peixe espada preto | black scabbardfish

Few fish are as closely associated with Madeira as black scabbardfish, that is, a deep sea species caught at depths of up to 1000 meters off the islands’ coast. With its long, eel-like body and sharp teeth, it looks intimidating and almost prehistoric, but for Madeirans it has been a staple for centuries. Local fishermen perfected techniques to catch it in the dark waters where it thrives, making Madeira one of the few places where this fish is eaten regularly. Madeira’s seafood identity is linked to peixe espada preto as much as it is to tuna, as this is a fish that is available all year round, and it is also very versatile in the kitchen. Its flesh is white, delicate, and slightly sweet, making it adaptable to many traditional and more modern recipes, which you’ll find in restaurants as well as local homes.

The most famous preparation is peixe espada preto com banana, where fillets of the scabbardfish are lightly battered, fried, and topped with slices of caramelized banana. To outsiders it may sound like an improbable pairing, but in Madeira this is standard and trust us when we say that this combination works incredibly well! Another common version is peixe espada com molho de maracujá, where the fish is dressed with a passionfruit sauce that balances sweetness with tang, showcasing another of the islands’ subtropical crops. These recipes which combine the Atlantic catch with local fruits that have grown in volcanic soil are unique Madeiran! But, beyond these classics, peixe espada is also served simply grilled, pan-fried with garlic and herbs, or turned into espetada de peixe espada, that is, fish skewers prepared in the style of the famous beef dish.

Polvo à Madeirense | Madeira style octopus stew

Octopus is beloved across Portugal, but in Madeira it takes on its own personality in the form of polvo à Madeirense, a slow-cooked stew that is packed with flavor. Traditionally, the octopus is simmered gently with onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers, and plenty of local wine until it becomes tender enough to cut with a fork, releasing its juices into a rich sauce. Potatoes usually join the pot, soaking up the flavors and making the dish hearty for a family style meal. Unlike the grilled or salad versions common on the mainland, Madeira’s octopus is all about long cooking and robust seasoning, reminding us of a time where stews were left on the fire while other work was being done in rural areas. For fishermen, it was also a practical way to make tougher octopus edible, transforming something chewy into a delicacy. Today it’s served at special celebrations, but also some restaurants which are contributing to keep the tradition alive, serving it in clay pots that preserve the heat at the table while you keep helping yourself.

Castanhetas | triggerfish

Castanhetas, known in English as triggerfish, may not have the fame of tuna or black scabbardfish, but they are also a part of the everyday diet for Madeira islanders, who sure know how to take full advantage of what the Atlantic offers. These small, flat fish are usually fried whole until the skin crisps up and the flesh underneath becomes tender and sweet, eaten with nothing more than a squeeze of lemon and a side of potatoes or salad. Their popularity grew in coastal villages where they were abundant and easy to catch, making them a reliable source of protein for families who couldn’t always afford larger, more expensive fish. To eat castanhetas the local way, you pick at the flesh with a fork or your hands, leaving behind the thin bones, which is why locals often associate them with homemade meals rather than restaurants, as the experience can be a little messy or, at least, quite informal. Visitors may not always encounter them on tourist menus, unless you go to a humble eatery, and this is more likely to happen in rural areas rather than in Funchal.

Chicharros | horse mackerel

Chicharros, or horse mackerel, are one of Madeira’s most typical everyday fish, the kind of meal that families have relied on for generations. Small, inexpensive, and abundant in the Atlantic, they are usually dusted in flour and fried whole until the skin becomes crispy, then served with simple accompaniments like boiled potatoes, tomato salad, or even just bread. Historically, chicharros have been the fish of the working class, as they are cheap enough for daily consumption and also filling enough to feed large households. Their strong flavor makes them unmistakable, and locals often eat them bones and all when they’re small enough, a habit that might surprise visitors but shows how the local food culture values that nothing (or little) goes to waste! Humble, oily and casual, in some ways, chicharros are like Madeira’s answer to the sardines that dominate mainland Portugal.

Gaiado seco | sun-dried skipjack tuna

Gaiado seco is one of Madeira’s most traditional ways of preserving fish, a practice born from necessity that has become a proud culinary heritage. At Oh! My Cod, we’re big fans or treating fish like meat, that is, processing the protein in ways to preserve it and enhance its flavors, so much so that we even created an experience dedicated to this, named Umami and Garum Lisbon Food Tour, which we hope you can join us for in the Portuguese capital! In Madeira, gaiado, a type of skipjack tuna, is cleaned, salted, and left to dry in the island sun, sometimes hanging from wooden racks that still appear in fishing towns today. This method allowed families to keep fish long after it was caught, essential back in the days when refrigeration didn’t exist and access to fresh protein was never guaranteed. The result is an intensely flavored, chewy product that’s often shredded into strips and served in salads with onions, tomatoes, and olive oil, or added to soups for extra depth. Its strong taste is not for everyone, but for locals it carries nostalgia and authenticity, a reminder of how ingenuity kept communities fed. Similar to salt cod in mainland Portugal, gaiado seco reflects how island life required preservation techniques to fight scarcity, but unlike bacalhau, this is a truly local product, a staple of the Atlantic diet followed by the inhabitants of the Madeira archipelago.

 

Typical sweets and desserts from Madeira

Bolo de mel & broas de mel de cana | honey cake and molasses cookies

No sweet is more tied to Madeira’s identity than bolo de mel, a dark, spiced cake made with sugarcane molasses, walnuts, almonds, and a generous mix of spices like cinnamon, clove, and anise. Despite the name, it doesn’t usually contain bee honey but rather molasses (mel de cana), a legacy of the 15th century sugar boom that once made Madeira one of Europe’s richest producers. Traditionally baked at Christmas, families would prepare the cake weeks in advance, letting it mature until the flavors deepened, and then break it apart by hand (according to tradition, never with a knife!), to share with relatives, neighbors, and friends. Its smaller cousin, broas de mel de cana, are chewy cookies made with the same molasses, shaped into rounds and often baked in large batches for the holidays. Both are delicious materializations of Madeira’s early role in the sugar trade, when cane from the island supplied markets across Europe and influenced sweets as far away as Brazil and the Caribbean. Today, you’ll find bolo de mel in pastry shops, often cut into small wrapped squares for visitors, while broas appear in every bakery but usually only closer to Christmas time.

Malassadas | Madeira’s doughnuts

Malassadas are Madeira’s answer to the universal craving for deep fried dough. They are essentially fluffy fritters made from enriched yeast dough, fried until puffed and coated in sugar. While they resemble doughnuts, they’re typically freeform and don’t have a hole. They’re traditionally made for terça-feira de Carnaval (Shrove Tuesday), marking the start of Lent with a final indulgence before the fasting season, though these days you’ll see them being prepared in fairs and even some bakeries, during the rest of the year too. The dough is usually very simple, consisting of flour, eggs, sugar, butter, and yeast. But the texture is key, as it should be airy inside with a crisp edge, eaten warm, ideally minutes out of the fryer. While they remain popular in Madeira, malassadas have an even bigger following across the Atlantic, thanks to Madeiran and Azorean emigrants who carried the recipe to Hawaii, the broader U.S., and parts of Canada. In Hawaii, especially, malassadas have become such a beloved treat today so linked with these islands, that many people there don’t even know the pastry’s Portuguese origins. We could go as far as to say that malassadas have been one of Portugal’s and certainly Madeira’s most successful edible exports!

Queijadas da Madeira | Madeiran cheese tarts

Queijadas da Madeira are small, round cheese tarts with a soft, slightly chewy texture. They are made with fresh cheese (queijo fresco or sometimes requeijão), sugar, eggs, and a bit of flour, resulting in a filling that is rich but not heavy, often scented with lemon zest or cinnamon depending on the recipe. Unlike the better known queijadas de Sintra from the mainland, Madeira’s version is less crumbly and more custardy, with a texture somewhere between a flan and a dense cake. These tarts are tied to traditions of conventual dessert making, originally made in religious settings and later adapted by home bakers across the island. Over time, each town developed its own take, with municipalities like Câmara de Lobos and Machico claiming their own styles. They’re typically eaten with coffee as a mid-morning snack or afternoon treat, and though less internationally known than bolo de mel, they’re certainly a staple in local pastelarias and a favorite at community events.

Pudim de maracujá | passionfruit pudding

Pudim de maracujá is one of Madeira’s most beloved modern desserts, a chilled, creamy pudding that balances the tropical acidity of passionfruit with the richness of condensed milk, cream, and gelatin. It’s a more recent addition to the Madeiran table, compared to older monastic sweets, but one that has quickly earned its place, especially at festive meals. Passionfruit, or maracujá, grows abundantly in Madeira’s subtropical climate. Locals cultivate several varieties, from the classic purple skinned type to yellow and even banana flavored hybrids. And this dessert is a perfect showcase for the fruit’s flavor which is full of personality. The pudding is usually made in a mold and unmolded like a flan, with a glossy passionfruit syrup poured over the top, seeds and all, making it look rather cool . While it doesn’t come from ancient tradition, it is very Madeiran nonetheless as it uses iconic local products. You will easily come across pudim de maracujá at family-run restaurants, as well as at home if you’re lucky to be invited for a meal with a Madeiran family.

Doces de castanha | chestnut-cased sweets 

While chestnuts may not be the first ingredient that comes to mind when thinking of Madeira’s subtropical flavors, they play a surprisingly important role in the island’s inland food traditions, especially in colder, mountainous regions like Curral das Freiras. Every autumn, as the temperatures drop and the chestnut harvest begins, local cooks start turning this humble ingredient into a wide range of desserts, from chestnut cakes and puddings to jams, purées, and even liqueurs. In villages like Curral das Freiras, the annual Festa da Castanha (Chestnut Festival) celebrates the ingredient with both sweet and savory recipes, drawing crowds who come for roasted chestnuts, chestnut cake (bolo de castanha), and homemade liqueurs infused with cinnamon and citrus. Most chestnut desserts are dense and rustic, often relying on few ingredients, which speaks to their origins as peasant food. Today, they offer a glimpse into a lesser-known side of Madeira’s culinary landscape, that is, one that doesn’t come from the coast or the sugarcane fields, but from the inner valleys which also have their own traditions.

Rebuçados de funcho | fennel candies

Rebuçados de funcho are old-fashioned fennel-flavored hard candies that have become one of Madeira’s most recognizable edible souvenirs, often wrapped in bright paper and sold in markets, tourist shops, and roadside stalls. Their flavor is  very herbal, slightly sweet, and quite aromatic thanks to the wild fennel (funcho) that once grew in abundance across the island, especially in the area around Funchal, which takes its very name from the plant. Historically, these candies were handmade in small batches, boiled over open fires and shaped by hand, often given to children as a treat or used as a remedy for sore throats and upset stomachs. They’re part of the island’s culinary nostalgia, evoking childhood memories for locals and offering visitors a taste  of “old world” Madeira. While modern versions are now produced industrially, some artisan producers still follow traditional methods, cooking the sugar slowly to bring out a deeper caramelization and infusing it with real fennel rather than synthetic flavoring.

 

Exotic fruits of Madeira

Banana da Madeira | Madeira banana

Bananas are everywhere in Madeira, clinging to steep terraces, stacked in crates at local markets, and tucked into some of the island’s most iconic dishes. But these aren’t the oversized bananas many visitors are used to which, let’s be honest, are quite bland as compared to local bananas in Madeira. Banana da Madeira is a smaller, firmer, and more intensely flavored variety, protected under European PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status. Grown on small family farms carved into the hillsides, Madeiran bananas ripen slowly under the island’s sun, developing a natural sweetness that makes them ideal for eating fresh but also for cooking. As we’ve seen above, they’re famously paired with black scabbardfish in one of the island’s most talked about (and surprisingly delicious) dishes, but also appear in fritters, cakes, and even liqueurs. The crop dates back to the 16th century and, alongside sugarcane, became one of Madeira’s most important exports, until competition from larger producers and ever-changing global markets pushed the industry into more localized production. Today, Madeira’s bananas are a point of pride, still grown using traditional methods and sold at markets often with their stems still attached. You can also find banana da Madeira in regular supermarkets in the Portuguese mainland. You’ll usually see it right next to the imported varieties, smaller in size and bigger in price!

Maracujá | passionfruit

Maracujá is one of Madeira’s most iconic fruits, and here it comes in more varieties than almost anywhere else in Europe. While most people know the classic purple passionfruit, the island produces over a dozen types, from yellow to orange, or banana-shaped to nearly round, each with its own level of acidity, sweetness, and aroma. The fruit thrives in Madeira’s volcanic soil and subtropical climate and, over time, it’s become an essential ingredient of local culinary traditions. It shows up in everything from juices, desserts, and sauces to the unmistakably local pairing of passionfruit with scabbardfish. It’s also the base of one of the island’s most popular liqueurs, poncha, often served as a digestif in restaurants. At the Mercado dos Lavradores in Funchal, vendors proudly offer tastings of different passionfruit types, though visitors should be wary as not all are grown locally, and prices can be steep. Still, if you come across it, we would highly recommend you try the real maracujá da Madeira, which is grown on family plots and ripened on the vine, being tart, fragrant, and a true sensory bomb!

Anona | custard apple

The anona, known elsewhere as cherimoya or custard apple, is one of Madeira’s most prized fruits, especially in the autumn and early winter when it reaches peak ripeness. Originally from the Andes and brought to the island centuries ago through Portuguese trade routes, the anona has adapted beautifully to Madeira’s microclimates, particularly in the warmer southern valleys. With its green, scaly skin and soft, creamy white flesh dotted with black seeds, the fruit is delicate and must be handled carefully as it bruises easily and ripens quickly, which is why you rarely find good anonas far from where they’re grown. The taste is tropical and nuanced, often described as a mix of banana, pineapple, and pear, and Madeirans typically eat it fresh by scooping out the flesh with a spoon. It’s rarely used in cooked recipes, since heat can dull its perfume, but you’ll sometimes find it featured in seasonal sorbets or homemade liqueurs. The fruit is such a source of pride that the town of Faial hosts an annual Festa da Anona to celebrate the harvest.

Banana-ananás | monstera deliciosa (aka fruit salad plant)

Monstera deliciosa, locally nicknamed banana-ananás for its tropical mix of banana and pineapple flavors, is one of Madeira’s most intriguing fruits, and also one of the most misunderstood. Grown from the same leafy plant that decorates hotel lobbies and Pinterest boards worldwide, its fruit looks like a green corn cob covered in hexagonal scales. But here’s the twist: it’s only edible when fully ripe, and that process is rather slow and unpredictable. Locals know to wait until the scales begin to fall off naturally, revealing the juicy white flesh underneath. Eat it too early, and you risk a mouthful of oxalate crystals that can sting like fiberglass. But get it at the right moment, and you’re rewarded with a complex, fragrant sweetness that really does taste like a tropical fruit salad. While it’s not grown in large quantities and it’s very rarely exported, it’s a curiosity beloved by Madeirans and often grown in home gardens or small orchards. At markets, especially in Funchal, and if you’re lucky (very lucky indeed!), you might spot a vendor explaining to tourists how to ripen one properly. If you’re granted the opportunity to try it or to take one home to taste later, don’t miss out!

 

Understanding Madeira wine: the iconic fortified wine but also other table wines

Few wines in the world carry as much history, or age as gracefully, as Madeira wine. Complex and full of contradictions, Madeira is a fortified wine that has sailed across oceans, toasted revolutions, and aged quietly in the attics of stone lodges for decades, even centuries. While it may be familiar by name to wine lovers, Madeira wine is still one of Portugal’s most misunderstood exports. Tasting it on the island is the best way to truly understand what makes it so unique, and why Madeirans treat it as a living tradition.

The story of Madeira wine began in the 15th century, when the Portuguese settled the island and quickly realized its steep volcanic slopes were ideal for vineyards. Madeira became a strategic resupply point for ships crossing the Atlantic, and barrels of wine were often loaded as cargo. To help the wine survive long sea voyages, producers began adding distilled grape spirit (aguardente) to stabilize it, similarly to what happened with Port wine in northern mainland Portugal. Then came the turning point, when winemakers noticed that wine aged better when it had been exposed to heat and movement during transit. This led to the development of Madeira’s signature aging techniques, estufagem and canteiro, which involve controlled heating and long periods of oxidation, turning what would ruin most wines into a process that brings complexity and longevity. Madeira is still the only wine in the world deliberately exposed to heat and oxygen as part of its craft,  which is why some bottles remain fresh for years, even after opening, something rare in the world of wine!

There are four classic grape varieties that define the traditional styles of Madeira wine: Sercial (dry, bright, and lightly salty), Verdelho (medium-dry with balanced richness), Boal or Bual (medium-sweet with toffee and nutty notes), and Malvasia (also called Malmsey, the richest and sweetest, perfect for desserts). Each of these retains lively acidity, which is what makes Madeira wine so balanced, even at higher sugar levels. You may also come across more obscure varieties like Terrantez and Bastardo, nearly lost to history but now seeing a bit of a revival among small producers. Another style worth knowing is Rainwater Madeira, a lighter, slightly diluted version that became popular in the 18th century, especially in the American colonies.

But it’s important to note that fortified wine is only part of the island’s viticultural story. In recent years, there’s been a quiet but promising resurgence of still table wines in Madeira, labeled as DOP Madeirense or Vinho Regional Terras Madeirenses. These include fresh whites with strong mineral notes, often made from Verdelho or Arnsburger, and light, elegant reds crafted from varieties like Tinta Negra or Touriga Nacional. While these wines don’t carry the weight of ancient tradition like their fortified cousins, they reflect the island’s new generation of winemakers, who are more  experimental and eager to work with the terroir in a different way. These table wines rarely leave the island, so discovering them at restaurants, wine bars or, even better, directly at small producers, can be very interesting for wine lovers visiting Madeira.

So how do you actually drink Madeira wine, the famous fortified type? Dry styles like Sercial and Verdelho are perfect aperitifs, excellent with salty snacks like olives or roasted almonds, or even paired with hard cheeses and charcuterie. The sweeter Boal and Malvasia shine with desserts, especially Madeira’s own bolo de mel, or with blue cheeses, figs, dark chocolate, and rich sauces.

To understand the depth of Madeira wine, visiting a few producers is a must. In Funchal, Blandy’s Wine Lodge offers one of the most immersive experiences, including guided cellar tours, aging rooms filled with ancient barrels, and tasting flights that let you compare styles and vintages side-by-side. D’Oliveiras, just a few blocks away (Rua Dos Ferreiros 107, São Martinho, Funchal), is a family-run company, known for holding some of the oldest wines still available for public sale, with vintages that predate both world wars. For a more contemporary take, head to Barbeito just outside the city, where innovative techniques meet traditional methods in small-batch and single-cask bottlings.  And beyond the big names, there’s a growing network of smaller boutique producers that offer wine tourism in more rural or intimate settings – see our full suggestions below!

If you’re planning to take bottles home, we recommend looking for age indications (5, 10, 15, or 20 years), or even better, a colheita, that is, a single vintage wine, aged in wood. Prices can climb quickly, but even entry-level bottles offer exceptional quality. And skip the touristy airport shops, as the best finds are in downtown wine lodges, local grocery stores, or directly from producers who may even ship internationally.

 

Wine tourism experiences in Madeira:

Blandy’s Wine Lodge

Blandy’s is one of the most reputed brands of Madeira wine and they offer guided tours of their historic wine lodge in Funchal. They include tastings of several Madeira wine styles (from young Madeira to vintage), vineyard walks, a wine shop & museum style explanations of the aging processes, especially canteiro. They also have terraces with views out to the vineyards, and even a bistro (1811 Bistro & Wine Bar) for pairing wine with food.
📍Avenida Arriaga 28, 9000‑064 Funchal
🌐www.blandyswinelodge.com/en/home

H.M. Borges

A small winery experience in Funchal with onsite wine production. Visitors can tour cellars, sample a selection of Madeira wines covering different styles, sometimes including rare or aged bottles. Because they produce in Funchal itself, it’s easy to combine a visit to their winery with other experiences in the city.
📍Rua 31 de Janeiro 83, 9050-401 Funchal
🌐www.hmborges.com/en/visitar

Vinhos Barbeito

Barbeito is a boutique producer known for both innovation and serious respect for tradition. Their tour plus tasting experiences often include exposure to different grape varieties, small‑batch & single cask bottlings, and beautiful views from their vineyard location in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos. Visiting here is a good contrast to more commercial lodges.
📍Estrada Ribeira Garcia, Lote 8 – Parque Empresarial De, 9300-324 Câmara de Lobos
🌐 https://vinhosbarbeito.com/images/TourTasting-English-2025.jpg

Quinta do Barbusano

A boutique quinta inland, known for producing still wines (including white, rosé and red) in addition to fortified styles. They are smaller in scale and their vineyard views are gorgeous, often combined with meals (for example full‑day wine tours include lunch there), and the experience is more intimate. A great if you want something off the beaten path.
📍Caminho Agrícola do Barbusano 26, 9240 São Vicente
🌐www.barbusano.pt/enoturismo

 

Other drinks from Madeira

Poncha | sugarcane alcohol and fruit drink

No drink is more synonymous with Madeira’s everyday life than poncha, a deceptively simple mix of sugarcane aguardente, lemon juice, and honey that usually hits people way more than expected. Legend has it the drink was originally used by fishermen in Câmara de Lobos to “disinfect the throat” after long days at sea, but these days it’s served in just about every bar across the island, and you can even find it in Lisbon in places such as Madeira grocer Poncha Lx or Alfama based restaurant-bar Madeira Pura. Though the classic version uses lemon, countless fruit variations now exist, including passionfruit, tangerine, even strawberry, often made fresh to order by vigorously stirring the ingredients with a traditional mexelote, a wooden muddler that resembles a small baseball bat. While it’s strong, poncha is dangerously drinkable and almost always consumed socially, and it’s said to cure colds, bad moods and even heartbreak!

Aguardente de cana | Madeira’s rum

Madeira’s connection to sugarcane goes back to the 15th century, when sugar cane rum, known locally as aguardente de cana, started being produced in the islands. Unlike the sweet, aged rums of the Caribbean, Madeiran rum is usually unaged, made directly from fermented cane juice rather than molasses. It’s grassy, sharp, and intense, traditionally distilled in copper stills and used as the base for poncha. But there’s also a growing movement toward more premium rums, with producers like Engenhos do Norte in Porto da Cruz now aging their rums in oak barrels, producing more complex spirits that are starting to get some international attention. Visiting a rum distillery in Madeira can be an enjoyable history lesson in sugar, colonial trade, and the industrial efforts that once powered the island economy.

Nikita | a local cocktail from Madeira

Sweet and strangely addictive, Nikita is a uniquely Madeiran cocktail that combines vanilla ice cream, beer, white wine, and pineapple, blended into a frothy drink that resembles a milkshake, but that is certainly much more than that. It was invented in the 1980s in the town of Câmara de Lobos and named after Elton John’s song “Nikita”, which was playing on the radio when a bartender decided to experiment with combining ingredients probably no one else thought should go together. Today, Nikita is firmly part of local bar culture, served at beach cafés, tourist spots, and parties. You can also find Nikita sem álcool (without alcohol), which is just as popular with kids and those avoiding booze. Like a few other Madeiran edible and drinkable traditions, it makes no sense until you try it… and then you’re in!

Pé de cabra | Madeira’s quirkiest drink

Literally translating to “goat’s foot”, pé de cabra is a lesser known but very local Madeiran drink made from a mix of dry red wine, dark beer, sugar, powdered chocolate, and sometimes milk. It originated as a homemade concoction in the countryside, often served warm in colder months or during festivals in the highlands. The name is said to come from the dark, murky color of the drink, a joke that ended up sticking. Though it sounds intense, it’s surprisingly mellow and slightly sweet, somewhere between a spiced wine and a rustic hot chocolate with a kick. You won’t often find it on menus, but ask for it in a traditional bar and someone might just know how to make it.

Cerveja Coral | Coral beer

Every island needs its beer, and in Madeira, that beer is Coral. Brewed in Câmara de Lobos since 1872, Coral is a light lager designed for sunny days, with a crisp and clean profile. It’s the go to drink with lapas, scabbardfish sandwiches, or just a bowl of peanuts at the tasca. While the brand has experimented with IPAs, stouts, and radlers in recent years, the classic Coral lager remains the king of casual drinking. It’s served everywhere and, if you’re trying to blend in with locals, ordering a Coral might be a good place to start.

Local Sodas: Brisa and Laranjada

Before Coke and Fanta took over the world, Madeira had its own soft drinks and, thankfully, they’re still going strong. Brisa Maracujá, a fizzy passionfruit soda, is the island’s unofficial soft drink. Sweet but tart, with the intense aroma of real passionfruit, it’s the flavor of childhood for many Madeirans, and a refreshing companion to salty snacks or summer heat. Equally nostalgic is Laranjada, a bright orange soda first produced in the 19th century, which claims to be Portugal’s oldest soft drink brand. Both drinks are made by local beverage company Empresa de Cervejas da Madeira (which also brews Coral), and you’ll see them everywhere across the island. Also, don’t be surprised if someone recommends using Brisa in your poncha!

Insider tips for foodies travelling in Madeira

We have gathered a few food related tips which will help you eat [almost] like a Madeiran, and not just like a tourist.

Let’s start with the most common meal times. Breakfast in Madeira is simple and often light, perhaps consisting of a bread roll (papo-seco) with butter and coffee or, if you’re lucky, a bolo do caco sandwich. You won’t find elaborate breakfast culture here, as it generally is the case all across Portugal. Lunchtime, however, is serious business. It happens around 12:30PM to 2PM, and many local restaurants offer a dish of the day (prato do dia), which is often generous, home style, and affordable. Think octopus stew, pork in garlic wine marinade, or fresh fish served with potatoes and salad. Dinner happens later, typically after 8PM, and it’s usually heavier, featuring grilled meat, fried cornmeal, and wine. In more rural areas, particularly inland, lunch remains the main meal of the day, and you’ll find that restaurants may not even serve dinner at all.

Markets are where you’ll really see how locals shop and eat. The Mercado dos Lavradores in Funchal (Largo dos Lavradores) is the most famous farmers market, with lots of colorful fruit stands and a busy fresh fish hall. Though it can get touristy depending when you visit, it’s still a must-visit. Try to go early, avoid the vendors aggressively upselling overpriced tropical fruits, and keep an eye out for seasonal items like fresh chestnuts, anonas, and local herbs. In smaller towns, look for weekly farmers’ markets, such as the Sunday market in Santo da Serra, which feels far more local and is packed with produce, cheeses, and baked goods that never make it into tourist brochures.

When it comes to food experiences, don’t just eat out in regular establishments and try to participate in more immersive culinary experiences. Many rum distilleries like Engenhos do Norte in Porto da Cruz offer guided tours with tastings, and some even allow you to see the pressing and distillation process during sugarcane season (March to May). Madeira wine lodges in Funchal (see details above) are also well worth visiting, and many now offer international shipping, meaning you can taste on site, order your favorites, and have them waiting when you return home. For something more rural, look out for farm experiences, where you can explore vineyards or gardens and enjoy a slow lunch with the owners.

Madeira’s calendar is filled with seasonal festivals focused on food traditions. The Panelo Feast in Chão da Ribeira (late January) is a communal stew cooked in giant pots over open flames, eaten outdoors in the forest, a super local tradition where anyone can join. Arraiais, the summer street parties held in villages between June and August, offer grilled meat skewers, bolo do caco, poncha, homemade liqueurs, and the warmest welcome you’ll ever find under a string of lights. If you’re around in September, don’t miss the Festa do Vinho (Madeira Wine Festival) in Funchal, which includes grape stomping demos, tastings, and food pairings across town. And for something truly special, there’s Noite do Mercado on December 23rd, a joyful celebration at the Mercado dos Lavradores, where locals gather to eat sandwiches with carne de vinha d’alhos, drink, shop for holiday ingredients, and sing until morning.

Quick note for vegetarians and vegans: food in Madeira relies heavily on meat and fish, but that doesn’t mean plant based eaters will go hungry. While traditional tascas might have limited options, the island’s markets are full of fresh produce, legumes, and tropical fruits, and younger chefs are starting to embrace more inclusive menus. In Funchal, you’ll find restaurants experimenting with vegetarian and vegan versions of local staples, such as for example Fala Fala which serves sandwiches with textured soy in vinha d’alhos, and Mungo Vegan where you can eat dairy free desserts with the islands’ iconic passionfruit. Even rural eateries will often offer something, at the very least milho frito, vegetable soups, or grilled seasonal vegetables if asked in advance. If you’re vegan, it’s worth learning a few key Portuguese phrases or calling ahead. Hospitality is big here, and many places are happy to accommodate if they know what you need.

Buying edible souvenirs in Madeira: when buying food souvenirs, skip the airport shops. For proper Madeira wine, go straight to the producers. For sweets like bolo de mel or broas, head to small bakeries like Fábrica Santo António (Tv. do Forno 27-29 São Martinho, Funchal), one of the island’s oldest. And if you’re eyeing fruit, buy it at the market and eat it on the spot as, depending where you’re traveling to, exporting tropical fruit can be complicated.

Finally, keep in mind that Madeira rewards curiosity.  After all, Portugal is one of the best places in the world for slow food and slow travel! The best meals often happen off the main roads. Don’t be shy and try to talk to people, ask what’s in season, don’t rush, and don’t skip a drink here and there if that means you’ll be cheering with the locals. Madeira may be small in size, but it offers a food and wine culture with a strong sense of place, that is old and vast, and that any curious foodie traveler will certainly enjoy!

 

Article by :

Sílvia Olivença (anthropologist and food guide/CEO at Oh! My Cod Ethnographic Food Tours & Trips)

Zara Quiroga (freelance food writer and food & cultural leader at Oh! My Cod Pico Trips)


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