SINTRA TRAVEL AND FOOD GUIDE – A DAY TRIP TO REMEMBER

Sintra is often described as mysterious and magical. But beyond the adjectives that fill tourist brochures, there is something more substantial we believe is worth exploring, even if it’s just as a day trip from Lisbon.

Just a short train ride from the Portuguese capital, Sintra occupies a special place in the imagination of locals, particularly those in the city. For centuries, it has been an area of retreat, where kings built summer palaces, poets looked for inspiration, and secret societies would gather in mansions or in the forest itself.

Sintra’s geography has a lot to do with its appeal. Tucked between the Atlantic coast and the Tagus Valley, the town’s microclimate creates lush vegetation, rolling mist and cool air even in the peak of summer. That natural contrast to Lisbon’s urban heat (literally!) has historically attracted the elites who could afford to have a summer house here, as well as artists seeking a different pace of life. Back in the 15th century, Sintra was already the summer refuge for the Portuguese royalty. Later by the 19th century, it was the center for Romanticism, with international writers and artists taking in the beauty and mystery of the landscape and projecting it into their works.

Most travelers who come to Portugal make Sintra a quick stop of half a day or, perhaps, a full day. They hop off the train, take a few photos at Palácio da Pena, eat a travesseiro and head back to Lisbon by sunset. Our guide is for those who want more. We aim at going beyond the postcard version of Sintra and share the stories, foods, trails and local secrets that give this place the cultural weight we believe it has. Sintra may be close enough to Lisbon for a day trip, but it is rich enough to linger in your memory long after that!

Getting to Sintra from Lisbon: practical tips for a day trip

Sintra is just over 30 kilometers from Lisbon and very easy to reach, which is part of what makes it such a popular day trip from the Portuguese capital.

The quickest and most convenient option is by train, which departs from Rossio Station in downtown Lisbon and takes you straight to the town of Sintra in around 40 minutes. Trains run every 20 to 30 minutes during the day, and you can check the official CP Comboios de Portugal website for the detailed schedule. The journey is straightforward and affordable, costing little over 2 euros when you have a reusable Viva Viagem card, valid for this trip and other public transport options during your stay in Lisbon.

Azenhas do Mar

Although it’s technically possible to drive to Sintra, we don’t usually recommend it unless you’re planning to explore other nearby places which may be harder to reach using public transportation. If you’re planning to head to Cabo da Roca (the westernmost point of mainland Europe), Azenhas do Mar, Praia da Ursa or other wild beaches in the vicinity (where you can enjoy stunning landscapes and incredible fresh fish meals!), as well as smaller villages here and there, driving can be more of a hassle than a convenience. In Sintra, streets are narrow, traffic can back up quickly, and parking is truly limited near most of the main attractions. There are paid parking lots, but they tend to fill up early, particularly during weekends and in high season. If you do decide to drive after all, it’s worth arriving first thing in the morning and parking farther from the historic center, then walking or using local transport to get around.

Once you arrive in Sintra by train, or even if you come by car and park outside the centre, don’t expect everything to be within easy walking distance. The train station is in the lower part of town, while many of the most iconic sights, including Palácio da Pena and the Moorish Castle, are located high up on the hills. To reach them, most visitors use the local Scotturb bus service, in particular the 434 line, which does a loop covering the train station, the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace. For other sites like Quinta da Regaleira or the lesser-known but gorgeous Monserrate Palace, the 435 bus line is a good option. Tickets for these buses can be purchased at the station or directly from the driver (cash only), and it’s possible to buy a day pass if you plan on hopping on and off.

If you prefer something a bit more flexible, tuk-tuks are everywhere and drivers often double as informal guides. Prices vary depending on the route and length of the ride, so it’s best to agree on the cost before you get in. Ride-sharing apps like Bolt or Uber also operate in the area, but coverage isn’t always reliable once you’re deeper in the hills or near forested trails. And for those who like to travel at a slower pace, there are scenic footpaths that connect various sites. Just keep in mind that the terrain can be steep, so good walking shoes and plenty of water are a must… and this will of course take time!

Getting to Sintra may be easy, but navigating it requires a little planning and, to make the most of the experience, having context certainly helps:

A brief history of Sintra

a person sitting on a rock in the middle of a forest Sintra’s story begins long before palaces and pastries. Archaeological evidence shows that humans have been inhabiting these hills since at least the Neolithic period. Ancient stone monuments, such as the Anta de Adrenunes (Est da Peninha 2705, Colares) in the nearby Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, suggest this area was a spiritual site thousands of years ago.

Later came the Romans, who called the area Mons Lunae (Mountain of the Moon). That name alone should tell you how they felt about it. They built villas and temples here, and some ruins still lie beneath the modern town. The Moors followed, building a hilltop fortress that would later become the Castelo dos Mouros, a spot that today offers some of the best views in the region. When Christian forces reconquered Sintra in the 12th century, they left the castle largely intact, a decision that now lets visitors walk the ancient walls almost like they would have back in the day.

By the late Middle Ages, Sintra was already considered a place for relaxation and reflection. Monks built isolated convents like the Capuchos, which was carved into the rock, and covered in cork to promote silence. Unlike the extravagant palaces that were built later, these sites were meant to be more humble and help those who’d stay there withdraw from the world. Today, places like Capuchos are quite a contrast with the grandeur of places like the Pena Palace, both located on the same hill.

It was during the age of the Portuguese monarchy that Sintra’s image as a romantic and exotic destination really started. King Manuel I chose the village as a royal summer escape in the 16th century, and the Palácio Nacional de Sintra, with its two iconic conical chimneys, still stands in the heart of the town. This palace mixes Moorish, Gothic and Manueline elements, embodying quite a visual history lesson in Portuguese architecture! Even the tiles inside, many of which predate the mass use of azulejos in Lisbon, depict stories of the country’s maritime adventures and an imported sense of aesthetics.

Convento dos Capuchos

But the 19th century is when Sintra truly started becoming what it is today. The Romantic movement spread across Europe, and Sintra was its Portuguese epicenter. Artists, aristocrats and intellectuals viewed nature as a spiritual force, and Sintra’s landscapes matched their ideals perfectly. Palácio da Pena, designed by King Ferdinand II, who was a German prince with a strong artistic sense, built this palace to inspire strong emotions. This explains the mix of architectural styles and such saturated colors. Little did he know how this would translate into being so instagramable today!

At the same time, figures like Portuguese writer Eça de Queirós and British poet Lord Byron were mentioning Sintra in their works. Byron famously described it as a “glorious Eden” in a letter to his mother. Even today, that quote is used all over tourist guides and promotional materials. But what they don’t tell you is that Byron also found the village a bit too polished for his taste. He preferred the overgrown ruins and forests outside the town center. Something to keep in mind if you’re trying to avoid the selfie clicking crowds.

In more recent history, in 1995 to be more precise, Sintra became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is now recognized for its buildings but also for its unique “cultural landscape”, that is, the interaction of humans and the natural environment. Remember this as you walk around Sintra: everything you see, from palaces to gardens, has been curated by several generations, making the town what it is today. As you explore Sintra, you’re actually experiencing centuries of politics, art and spiritual practices.

What to see and do in Sintra (beyond the obvious)

Travelers come to Sintra looking for colorful places, dramatic viewpoints and to, in a general sense, experience the renowned charm of this town. Yet, beyond the views, they often leave without discovering many of its hidden gems and less popular corners.

Sintra’s most iconic sights

Palácio da Pena

You’ll want to visit the famous sites, of course, but there’s a difference between ticking them off a list and actually understanding them. These landmarks have more to offer when you visit them with some background context.

Palácio da Pena (Estrada da Pena) is, by far, the most photographed spot in Sintra. Some compare it to a palace out of a Disney story, but its architecture has all to do with the 19th century era of Romanticism. This European cultural movement celebrated emotion, nature, and nostalgia. King Ferdinand II, who commissioned the palace, deliberately mixed architectural styles, from Neo-Gothic and Moorish to Manueline and even some Indian influences. The result is not just a whimsical palace, but a visual manifesto about imagination and the symbolic power of architecture. This is also the only attraction in Sintra that requires scheduled entry tickets bought in advance. You must choose a time slot when purchasing online, and during high season, the best times can sell out days ahead. If you show up without a ticket, you’re likely out of luck. For all other major sites in Sintra, including Quinta da Regaleira and the Moorish Castle, you can generally improvise on the day. To make the most of your visit, aim for the earliest time slot available, or go later in the afternoon, when some day-trippers may already be heading back. Make sure to take your time around here. The palace is surrounded by an expansive park, also designed with a lot of attention to symbolism and Romantic ideals.

Just below lies the Castelo dos Mouros, built by the Moors in the 9th century. Most visitors walk the outer walls and admire the view, but what often goes unnoticed is how strategic the location was. From this spot, the Moors could monitor the entire coastline and the Tagus River valley. This was a true medieval surveillance system! Today it may seem like a rather peaceful location (unless a lot of tourists start queuing…), but during the Reconquista, this fortress was at the center of territorial power struggles that shaped Iberia. You can admire the castle from the outside or purchase a ticket here to go inside and fully explore it.

Closer to town, the Palácio Nacional de Sintra (Largo Rainha Dona Amélia) sits in the valley and is often overshadowed by its more dramatic cousins. But this palace is one of the oldest in Portugal and served as a royal residence for centuries. The famous twin chimneys that rise from the kitchen are more than quirky photo ops. They’re a symbol of Sintra itself and a reminder of the palace’s long history of diplomacy, which usually involved a lot of banquets and feasting. Inside, rooms are decorated with tiles from the 15th and 16th centuries, including rare designs that predate the mass production of azulejos in Lisbon.

Perhaps the most symbolically loaded of all is the Quinta da Regaleira. Built in the early 20th century by a wealthy Portuguese-Brazilian coffee magnate, this estate is believed to be full of hidden meanings. The gardens include several underground tunnels, grottos and Masonic symbols. The Initiation Well, a spiral staircase descending into the earth, is not a well at all but a space for esoteric rituals. Even if you do not believe in secret societies, walking around here might just make you reconsider!

Sintra’s hidden gems and local secrets

If Sintra is full of palaces with ticket booths and gift shops, it’s also true that the town still conserves a sense of mystery, and that is materialized through many of the lesser known spots. If you’re willing to step off the usual touristic routes, you’ll discover gardens where monarchs enjoyed their honeymoons, trails once walked by monks, and buildings that tell stories of the past via their architecture.

Villa Sassetti trail

One of the most quietly powerful places in Sintra is the Convento dos Capuchos (Estr. dos Capuchos, Colares), also known as the Cork Convent, and formerly named Convento de Santa Cruz da Serra de Sintra. It was built in the 16th century by Franciscan monks. This compact monastery is surrounded by forest, with cells lined in cork for insulation and modesty. Everything here is small, austere and deeply intentional, which is the very opposite of Pena Palace’s impressive looks! This is a space that invites silence and reflection, so as you explore the convent keep this in mind in order to impact as minimally as possible other travelers’ experience.

If you’re heading up toward the major landmarks and you have time for it, you may consider skipping the bus queue and walk the Villa Sassetti trail instead. This 1.8 kilometer (a little over 1 mile) path links the historic center of Sintra to the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace, passing by gardens, mossy stone steps and leafy forest corridors. You’ll walk past old estates and hidden fountains along the way, catching glimpses of the palaces above. It’s a relatively easy hike and one of the best ways to experience Sintra’s landscape avoiding the crowds!

Architecture lovers should set time aside for Monserrate Palace (Rua Barbosa du Bocage 136), one of Sintra’s most enchanting buildings. This 19th-century mansion blends Gothic, Indian, and Moorish influences, once again as an expression of Romantic fantasy. Once rented by the English writer William Beckford, it was later transformed by Sir Francis Cook, a wealthy British industrialist who turned the surrounding gardens into a living museum of plant species from around the world. Monserrate is usually less crowded than Pena or Regaleira, but that doesn’t mean that it is any less worth it.

Just next door to Quinta da Regaleira is the usually overlooked Quinta do Relógio (Largo da Quinta do Relógio), a 19th-century estate with Moorish-inspired architecture and an impressive garden planted with rare and exotic species. This place was the honeymoon retreat of King Carlos I and Queen Amélia in 1886 and it only opens on specific days of the year – check ahead.

Palácio de Seteais (Rua Barbosa du Bocage 8), now operating as a five-star hotel, is another spot that’s easy to pass by without realizing what it is. Built in the 18th century, the palace sits on the hillside with sweeping views stretching from the Pena Palace to the sea. Even if you’re not staying there, the formal gardens are open to wander, and the elegant and symmetrical space feels frozen in time.

The mysterious Initiation Well in Regaleira Palace

Farther from the village center, Quinta da Ribafria (Estr. Várzea) is for us one of Sintra’s best-kept secrets. Located in Lourel, this 16th-century manor was built in Renaissance style and is surrounded by a leafy estate filled with ancient trees, shaded lawns, and quiet trails. After years of neglect, it’s now open to the public and sometimes hosts concerts, exhibitions and outdoor theatre. Unlike the more famous sites of Sintra, this one still feels largely untouched by tourism.

Deeper into the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, you’ll see the Peninha Sanctuary, one of the region’s most breathtaking and yet less visited sites. This small 17th-century chapel and hermitage complex is located high on a granite top, offering some of the most dramatic views in the entire region. If you’re lucky to visit on a clear day (quite a rarity in Sintra, let’s be honest), from here you’ll be able to see the Atlantic ocean, the Arrábida mountains in the distance, and even the coast past Cascais and Guincho beach. Once upon a time, this was considered a sacred spot, and it’s honestly easy to see why. If you have time and energy, there’s a hiking trail that leads here from nearby villages like Almoçageme or from the road between Sintra and Cascais. We’re not going to say that this is an easy one, but it sure pays off!

Palácio Biester (Av. Almeida Garrett 1a) is another recent addition to Sintra’s visitable landmarks. Built in the late 19th century for the Biester family, this Romantic-style residence was designed by architect José Luís Monteiro (best known for Lisbon’s Rossio train station), and decorated by artists like Luigi Manini and Paul Baudry. The palace remained private for decades and only recently opened its doors to visitors. With its richly ornamented interiors and unique architectural flourishes, it’s a new favorite for those looking to go beyond the usual circuit.

Right in the center of Sintra, Palácio Valenças (Rua Visc. de Monserrate 60) is a striking revivalist building that once served as the residence of the Count of Valenças. It now houses the municipal archive, but its tiled façade and local legends (including a ghost named Palmira said to haunt the upper floor) give it a certain charm. Just next door is the Parque da Liberdade (Volta do Duche 60), one of the town’s most relaxing green spaces, filled with rare plants and often overlooked by day trippers rushing from monument to monument.

Deeper inside the Pena Park, the Chalet da Condessa d’Edla (Estrada da Pena) is a romantic Alpine-style house built by King Ferdinand II for his second wife, Elise Hensler, Countess of Edla. The chalet’s architecture featured cork panels and painted plasterwork, all surrounded by a carefully curated botanical garden.

While not in the historic town center, the Palácio Nacional de Queluz (Largo Palácio de Queluz, Queluz) is well worth a detour. Located in the municipality of Sintra, just a short ride away, this 18th-century palace was a royal residence known for its rococo interiors and gardens manicured according to French style. It also houses the Portuguese School of Equestrian Art, where you can sometimes catch live demonstrations of classical riding in the tradition of Versailles.

a close up of a tree Lastly, for something truly unique, keep an eye out for night walks through the Sintra forest. Local hiking groups and cultural associations occasionally organize guided forest hikes by moonlight, often following the rhythm of the lunar cycle or telling local legends along the way. Expect no artificial lighting or noise during these walks. Only the sounds of your own steps on the ground, the leaves as they dance on the tree branches, the (usually strong) wind, perhaps some animals calling in the dark… this is not the Sintra of guidebooks, but something wilder and quite authentic. Ask in Casa do Fauno if they know there’s any full moon walking planed. And if you’re visiting in June, you’re in for something even more magical: it’s firefly mating season! On special nights, you’ll be able to marvel at hundreds of tiny lights flying around the pitch black forest, and it’s absolutely stunning. For upcoming hikes such as these, get in touch with organizations like Trilhos Nocturos, Andamento – Turismo Aventura, or the super knowledgeable guide Miguel Boim.

Sintra’s sites and mystique as depicted in international pop culture and Portuguese literature

Sintra’s beauty has made it a natural setting for filmmakers and other artists. Roman Polanski’s The Ninth Gate, featuring Johnny Depp, used Quinta da Regaleira as a backdrop, tapping into its esoteric vibe and labyrinthic architecture to evoke mystery and the occult. The moss-covered wells and neo-Manueline towers were perfect fits for the film’s vibe of tension.

Few know, however, that the same palace was also featured in the 1996 adaptation of Gulliver’s Travels starring Ted Danson. In that version, Quinta da Regaleira served as the cinematic location for Omar Sharif’s castle, with its fantastical architecture bringing to life the surreal world of Laputa. Its dramatic façade, spiraling stone staircases and gardens provided the ideal setting for a land of dream and philosophical reflection, something that has a lot to do with Sintra’s identity beyond fiction.

But Sintra’s cultural cachet long predates the area of the silver screen. In the 19th century, writers like Eça de Queirós used Sintra as a setting to explore themes of decadence, illusion and desire. The poet Almeida Garrett wrote about Sintra’s forests with a certain spiritual reverence, while Lord Byron, famously, described it as a “glorious Eden.” Still, his letters hint at a quiet skepticism as Byron apparently found Sintra almost too perfect, perhaps aware that “paradise” always hides a darker side too…

These days, Sintra keeps attracting musicians, photographers and videographers, because of its dramatic sights and sense of timelessness. A little bit of everything has been shot around here, from music videos, to ads, commercial editorials, and even porn movies!

The culinary identity of Sintra

Historically speaking, the food culture of Sintra was a mix of noble dining traditions and humble mountain fare, making use of ingredients influenced by the region’s cool and camp climate, as well as the proximity to the Atlantic. Once upon a time, while kings and nobles dined on elaborate roasts and imported wines, monks and nuns created what are now some of the most iconic regional sweets using staple ingredients like egg yolks, sugar and almonds. Today, though, this regionalism has been diluted, thanks to the proximity to the Portuguese capital and, even more recently, the increase of tourism. So, unlike destinations known for bold regional signature dishes, Sintra’s gastronomic identity today isn’t quite as defined by a single dish or dominant tradition.

The inland villages of the Sintra municipality, particularly Negrais, Mercês or Belas, still proudly serve their iconic recipes, namely spit-roasted suckling pig (leitão de Negrais), roast veal (vitela assada) and a regional pork dish known as carne de porco à Mercês. These are dishes usually enjoyed at family-style restaurants where you’ll see more locals than tourists, particularly during weekends, when families gather for more leisurely meals.

Closer to the ocean, seafood naturally dominates the menu. By the coast stretching from Praia Grande to Azenhas do Mar, you’ll find plenty of restaurants dedicated to fresh fish and seafood, including sea bass (robalo), tender octopus (polvo) and gooseneck barnacles (percebes) harvested from the cliffs nearby. For a seafood treat or a simple but extremely satisfying dish of charcoal grilled fish, head to establishments like Restaurante Adraga (Rua da Praia da Adraga, Almoçageme), Restaurante Moinho Ibérico (Av. Moinhos do Arneiro 110, São João das Lampas), or Restaurante Azenhas do Mar (Lugar das Piscinas, Colares).

Those with a sweet tooth will be happy to know that Sintra is a land of legendary pastries. If you’ve previously read anything about Sintra, you’ve likely heard of the queijadas de Sintra, sweet cheese tarts said to date back to the Middle Ages, or the sugary travesseiros, consisting of flaky puff pastry filled with almond and egg cream. But there’s more to discover: fofos de Belas, pillowy sponge cakes from a nearby village; pastéis da Pena, which are harder to find these days but worth a hunt; or nozes de Galamares, walnut-shaped treats with a nutty filling from a tiny locality nearby the main town of Sintra.

Bread in the area of Sintra also matters a great deal! In more rustic localities such as Janas and Assafora, you’ll still find pão saloio baked in traditional wood ovens. This is a rustic type of bread with a thick crust and soft crumb, perfect as a vessel to enjoy Portuguese charcuterie and regional cheeses.

To drink, Sintra has something extremely unique: Colares wine, made from grapes grown on sandy soils by the Atlantic – more on this wine below. Also worth noting is the rise of local craft beers, sometimes even infused with botanicals from the area. If you are curious to try brews from Sintra, look for brands such as Cerveja Rafeira or simply head straight to HopSin in nearby Colares (Avenida do Atlantico 1), a village belonging to Sintra, which is a craft beer bar and brewery serving several labels, including their very own house speciality, considered to be Sintra’s first ever craft beer.

Our recommendations below focus on Sintra town and immediate surroundings, but keep in mind that the entire municipality of Sintra includes other villages, both by the coast and more inland, where you can also find lovely places to eat and drink.

The best restaurants in Sintra

Being such a popular place, of course Sintra has some tourist traps you’d best avoid to have a memorable meal around here. But the town can also serve up a good plate of Portuguese food, if you know where to look! Here you’ll find light fare ideal for a quick meal in between explorations of the most well known sites in Sintra as well as its hidden gems, but also more elaborate meals if you fancy sitting around the table for quite a while, perhaps as you sip a nice bottle of Portuguese wine too.

Today, more than having its own culinary identity, Sintra sits within the broader Portuguese food ecosystem. Joining our Original Lisbon Food and Wine Tour you’ll be better prepared to taste the wonders of Sintra while connecting the dots!

Portuguese restaurants in Sintra

Tascantiga (Escadinhas da Fonte da Pipa 2)

Just below the Moorish Castle, Tascantiga specializes in petiscos (the Portuguese version of tapas), with a great menu of small flavorful dishes that are meant to be shared. Chef Vítor Paes takes familiar Portuguese classics and gives them a creative touch, both in flavor and presentation. Don’t miss the garlicky sautéed shrimps with coriander (camarão com coentros), the crispy fried cuttlefish with squid ink aioli (choco frito), the fire roasted chorizo (chouriço assado), or the velvety pork cheeks in mushroom sauce (bochechas de porco). Even the humble cod fritter (pastel de bacalhau) is done as it’s meant to be, golden and crispy on the outside and smooth on the inside. Despite its central location, Tascantiga serves delicious food (including vegetarian and vegan options) in generous portions, and at fair prices.

Curral dos Caprinos (Rua 28 de Setembro, Cabriz)

Opened back in 1974, Curral dos Caprinos is a true institution of regional eating in Sintra, namely in the small village of Cabriz, just a couple of minutes from the historic center. Ask locals and they may just tell you that this is where they go around here to eat “real Portuguese food”. By this they mean rustic dishes that may energize you or, let’s be honest, make you feel too heavy to go do one of the trails we recommend above. The owners are from Alentejo and Beira Baixa. So this translates into signature dishes featuring young goat (cabrito), either roasted, grilled or slow-cooked in a special clay pot locally known as púcara. This is a place for meat lovers (don’t miss the skewer – espetada – featuring a combination of juicy beef and pork!), and those who’d be happy to see a large portion land on their table.

Tasco do Strauss (Largo Aliados 2)

If after your explorations of Sintra you feel like stepping a little away from the historic center, go to Tasco do Strauss. This is not exactly a “hidden gem”, but it sure feels like one! Open since 2016, this cozy tasca has earned a quiet reputation for honest, homemade Portuguese petiscos. The vibe is truly unpretentious and it reminds you of home, in the best possible way, as the team treats you with such familiarity. From the menu we suggest selecting a variety of petiscos, such as octopus salad (salada de polvo), flame roasted chorizo (chouriço assado), fried cuttlefish or the chicken gizzards (moelas). When in season, the braised snails (caracóis) are a big hit, as locals love to snack on them mid afternoon with a nice cold beer. Join in the tradition and feel like a local in the most delicious (and a little adventurous) of ways!

Tira-Tapas (Calçada de São Pedro 24 52)

Even though it’s right in Sintra’s historic center, Tira-Tapas feels like a quiet corner to retreat to with good honest food. This modern tasca is a family-run establishment, and the owners tend to treat customers truly like family. It was opened in 2017 by Diana Paixão, who swapped a career in pharmaceuticals for a lifelong dream of running a petiscaria. Now she dishes out servings of Portuguese traditional dishes with lots of soul, including favorites like duck rice (arroz de pato), oven baked creamy cod (bacalhau espiritual), morcela blood sausage with pineapple and honey, octopus salad, and more. Everything is homemade, served with a smile, affordable, unpretentious and downright authentic.

Taverna dos Trobadores (Praça Dom Fernando II 18)

Located just outside the busiest parts of Sintra, Taverna dos Trovadores is a place for food but also for live Portuguese music. In fact, this establishment started back in 1990 as a music bar (the owner Fernando Pereira is a musician himself), but eventually grew into a full on restaurant, known today for its fire-grilled meats. On Friday and Saturday nights, during dinner, the space fills with the sounds of Portuguese music and this may just be the excuse you needed to stay longer in Sintra, even if you are just visiting for the day. Don’t worry, as the last train departs to Lisbon a little after midnight!

Bacalhau na Vila (Arco do Terreirinho 3)

Bacalhau na Vila is a restaurant entirely dedicated to Portugal’s most iconic fish: salt cod! Chef Ricardo Santos first joined as a consultant but was so involved with the project that he stayed and eventually became co-owner. They say there’s “a 1001 ways to cook cod in Portugal” and at Bacalhau da Vila they recreate some of the classics while still managing to innovate with their own ideas. The menu ranges from old school stew featuring cod tongues (estufado de línguas de bacalhau), to a crispy cod skin salad and even a savory pastel de nata filled with bacalhau. The menu may focus on just one main ingredient, but monotony has no place around here. If you are eager to explore one of Portugal’s most iconic ingredients, this is a good place to do it while in Sintra!

Taberna Criativa (Av. Heliodoro Salgado 26)

LIving up to its name, which translates as “creative tavern”, this is a place where Portuguese culinary tradition meets the contemporary approach of the chef. Taberna Criativa is one of those recently opened Portuguese contemporary taverns specializing in elevated petiscos and reimagined classics. It’s not the most affordable venue in town, but for those who wish to dine with some funky atmosphere and enjoy food that is tasty but also nice in terms of presentation, this is a good spot. They also have great vegetarian options! Overall, this is an ideal restaurant for those who want a more refined take on Portuguese cuisine, without losing its essence.

O Lavrador (Rua 25 de Abril 36)

Old-fashioned in the best possible way, O Lavrador is the kind of place where you walk in, see the tiled walls and rustic farming tools on display, and immediately know the food is going to hit the spot. We love tascas! This no-frills local favorite serves generous portions of traditional Portuguese comfort food. The star of the show is the naco na pedra, a sizzling slab of beef served raw on a hot stone so you can cook it exactly how you like it, right at the table. Also worth trying is the cod cooked according to their own style (bacalhau à lavrador), the juicy picanha, and their hearty goatling BBQ (cabrito no churrasco). For dessert, go for the house specialties like almond tart or the toffee mouse (baba de camelo). It’s unpretentious, satisfying, and very Portuguese!

Adega do Saraiva (Largo do Paquete 3)

For over 30 years, Adega do Saraiva has been drawing hungry locals and in-the-know visitors to the quiet village of Nafarros, just outside Sintra. What for? One of the best oven-roasted kid goats (cabrito assado no forno) you’ll find anywhere in the region. It’s seriously so good, some folks make the trip here some weekends just for the sake of eating it. Even though Adega do Saraiva has become almost synonymous with roasted cabrito, there are other dishes worth coming here for, including the roasted salt cod (bacalhau assado) and the mixed fish stew (caldeirada). The atmosphere is lively and unpretentious, the portions are super generous, and the prices are refreshingly fair. This is the kind of place that we wish we’d see more often and that is sadly disappearing, so let’s make the most of it and value it properly while we can!

Romaria de Baco (Rua Gil Vicente 2)

Also right in Sintra’s historic center, Romaria de Baco offers generous petiscos as well as traditional mains with a modern twist. Think black pork loin with apple purée, sautéed mushrooms with Serra da Estrela cheese, or octopus baked in the oven. There’s also a selection of steaks with indulgent sauces like mustard or gorgonzola. But, if you are in the mood for a steak, we’d recommend you ask for the bife à Marrare, which is one of the most traditional ways of preparing a steak around Lisbon. It consists of a tender cut served in a creamy, peppery coffee-infused sauce that dates back to 19th-century Lisbon cafés, and that is sadly disappearing from menus in recent years. As Baco was the Greek god of wine, of course this restaurant also has a good wine list, featuring Portuguese producers from every corner of the country.

Caricato (Estr. da Me. de Deus, Carrascal)

Caricato is one of those no-frills, family-run places where the cooking does all the talking. Located in Carrascal, near Várzea de Sintra, it’s a neighborhood classic beloved by locals for its nostalgic flavors but also for the big portions. The star dish here is cow’s trotters with chickpeas (mão de vaca com grão), prepared by D. Georgina according to old-school Ribatejo traditions. You can expect meat that melts in your mouth and tender chickpeas drenched in flavorful sauce. This is not a fancy establishment. This is the kind of place you come to eat comfort food. Bonus that the restaurant has a good wine list too, as well as lovely views over the Serra de Sintra.

Tábuas Honest Food (Rua Padre Amaro Teixeira de Azevedo 14)

Located in Várzea de Sintra, away from the tourist buzz of the historic center, Tábuas lives up to its name cooking honest and thoughtfully prepared food, often served on wooden boards. This charming, family-run spot is known for its home-style cooking with a contemporary approach. Expect generous sharing boards featuring local cheese and charcuterie from Trás-os-Montes, smoked salmon with lime and ginger mayo, or a vegetarian falafel and purple cabbage chutney combo. Tábuas is vegan and veggie-friendly, something that is actually a reflection of the owners’ own mixed-diet household. On weekends, brunch is a big hit, featuring even a three-course vegan option. Expect a warm welcome, fresh flavors, and food that’s simple, but very satisfying.

Sintra Terrace (Miradouro da Ferraria 3)

As Sintra Terrace is situated just behind the discreet Miradouro da Ferraria, you can anticipate that this place is all about the view. If you care about food the most, this place is good, but not great; but if you fancy a pretty view while you grab a bite, there’s probably no better venue around! Their panoramic terrace overlooks the historic center so, even if not for a formal meal, this is a great spot to sip a cocktail as the sun sets over the mountains. The menu focuses on casual foods like burgers served in bolo do caco bread and charcuterie boards, but those with a stronger appetite can also be happy ordering more substantial meals such as duck rice or one of their recipes featuring octopus or salt cod. It’s not the most gastronomically ambitious spot in town, but when it comes to scenery, it’s hard to beat!

Nau Palatina (Calçada de São Pedro 18)

Located in São Pedro de Sintra, just outside the main tourist area, Nau Palatina is an establishment brought to life by Zé and Yolanda. It started as a tea house but soon evolved into one of the area’s most original eateries, now serving traditional Portuguese petiscos in a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. The menu focuses on local and seasonal ingredients, but includes plenty of surprises such as dried tuna (muxama) with toasted almonds, Azorean beef stew, and amazing vegetarian options like spiced lentils or chard with chickpeas. We recommend ending your meal with one of their special teas and a sweet bite, such as requeijão baked Alentejo-style or a tea infused truffle. If you don’t come here for lunch while exploring Sintra, you may want to consider an afternoon tea at least!

LAB by Sergi Arola (Quinta da Lagoa Azul)

At the luxurious Penha Longa Resort in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, LAB by Sergi Arola offers a refined tasting journey that mixes Portuguese tradition with broader Iberian flavors. At this Michelin-starred restaurant led by Catalan chef Sergi Arola, guests can choose from three tasting menus, including a fully vegetarian one. You’ll find innovative bites as well as more refined interpretations of regional favorites. Each course is paired with wines (at least half of them Portuguese), selected from a cellar with more than 500 labels, considered by experts to be one of the best in the country. If you are looking to go somewhere impressive and classy around Sintra, it probably doesn’t get any fancier than this! Pro tip: book ahead and ask for a table by the window to fully enjoy the views out towards the golf course.

Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options in Sintra

While traditional Portuguese cuisine leans heavily on meat, fish, and dairy, these days, more and more restaurants offer plant-based options. For those who follow a gluten-free diet, traditional Portuguese cuisine can be surprisingly easy to navigate. Below, we highlight some of the best spots for vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free eats in Sintra. These are just a few of our favorites, but thankfully most restaurants, at least in the town centre, will feature several options in their menus these days.

Mela Canela (Rua Dr. Alfredo da Costa 94 and Rua Marquês Viana 1)

Mela Canela is a fully plant-based café and restaurant with two locations, one in central Sintra and another in São Pedro. This is a cozy spot for a wholesome lunch or a mid afternoon slice of cake and coffee. Everything is made with TLC by owner Melania (also known as Mela, thus explaining the name of the restaurant), using seasonal ingredients sourced from local farmers. Expect hearty vegan casseroles, savoury tarts, sweet potato brownies, and plenty of options free of gluten and refined sugar. Their dairy special changes every day of the week and can be checked on Instagram before heading over there.

A Praça (Rua Paço 16)

A Praça literally means “farmers market”, as this is a small vegetarian canteen located inside Sintra’s municipal market. These days, as Sintra has become more touristic and less locals live in the centre, this is more of a food court than an actual farmers’ market. A Praça serves affordable, wholesome meals that taste delicious but that also have a mission. They aim at promoting local agrobiodiversity and traditional farming by sourcing fresh produce from nearby growers. The daily dishes are honestly simple, seasonal, and low-impact, with a focus on sustainability and minimal waste. A perfect spot for a casual lunch that’s good for the planet and for your health too!

Café Saudade (Av. Dr. Miguel Bombarda 6)

Café Saudade is set near Sintra’s train station, in a beautifully restored factory where back in the day they used to bake queijadas. As the name anticipates, Café Saudade is a tea house that loves to induce nostalgia. Folks come here for food (hearty breakfasts, giant scones, parfaits layered with yogurt, muesli and fruit, and generous toast on raisin or rye bread from local bakeries), but also for the cultural program as from time to time they host events. While the menu isn’t fully vegetarian or gluten-free, there are good options for both, especially for breakfast or a light midday bite.

The sweet side of Sintra: conventual sweets you must try

Sintra’s food reputation is closely linked with pastries, even more so than to savory dishes. Most travelers who make their way to Sintra, have eating a travesseiro or queijada in their bucket list.

Travesseiros (literally translating as pillows), consist of sugar-dusted puff pastry filled with almond cream and egg yolk. They were invented at Piriquita, a pastry shop founded in the 1860s, and while you may see similar pastries at other bakeries both in Sintra and elsewhere in the country (particularly around the Great Lisbon area), their original recipe remains a secret.

Queijadas de Sintra are also very iconic. These small tartlets are made with cottage cheese, eggs, sugar and cinnamon. They originated in the nearby village of Sapa and were once used as payment for rent and taxes. Their filling is simple but rich, and the pastry casing is still rolled out by hand in traditional bakeries.

Beyond these two more well-known sweet treats, Sintra also has other specialities which may not be as easy to find, or that may just make a seasonal appearance. Those include candied walnuts in syrup (nozes douradas) and the spongy eggy cakes known as fofos de Belas. Enjoy any of these or the above for a lovely coffee break, with some espresso or, the old fashioned way, with coffee with milk in a glass tumbler (galão), just like us locals would traditionally do.

Casa Piriquita (Rua Padarias 1)

No trip to Sintra is complete without stopping at Casa Piriquita, the town’s most iconic pastry shop, founded in 1862. This is the birthplace of the famous travesseiro, a sugar-dusted puff pastry filled with creamy egg yolk and almond. The recipe was rediscovered during WWII and turned into the house’s super hit. But there’s more: queijadas de Sintra, nozes douradas, and the lesser-known pastéis de Cruz Alta (featuring white beans and egg yolks, similarly to pastéis de feijão) and pastéis de Sintra (egg and almond cream wrapped around puff pastry), also deserve a place on your table particularly if, like us, you like to explore (and eat!) beyond the obvious. While traditional fillings may still be the most sought after, the fact that they make travesseiros with apple and cinnamon and even nutella these days, clearly shows how touristic Sintra has become.

Fábrica das Verdadeiras Queijadas da Sapa (Volta do Duche 12)

This establishment, also simply known as Queijadas de Sapa, dates back to 1756 and it claims to be the birthplace of one of Sintra’s most emblematic sweets. Still handmade today, these queijadas have a dense texture and strong cinnamon flavor, quite different from the mass-produced versions both in terms of texture and taste. Just like Maria Sapa used to make them back in the day… or so they say! The bakery moved from Ranholas to its current location when the train station opened in the 19th century, and has remained a family-run operation ever since. With a view of the National Palace of Sintra, this is a good place not just for take-away queijadas, but also to stop and recharge with a nice cup of tea as you sample the sweets.

Pastelaria Gregório (Av. Dom Francisco de Almeida 35)

Founded in 1890, Pastelaria Gregório is a true old-school pastelaria in São Pedro de Sintra. This place has nothing to do with other tourist filled bakeries right in downtown Sintra. This is where locals come for breakfast or a coffee and a sweet bite anytime of the day. They are also very good at crafting the well-known regional sweets, including travesseiros and queijadas. Besides those, you can also try other Portuguese treats such as spiced honey cookies (broas de mel) and, when Autumn comes, candied chestnuts (castanhas doces). If you want to take something back to your Airbnb for the following morning’s breakfast, grab yourself a loaf of the rustic country-style bread pão saloio. That’s for sure what we would do!

Casa dos Fofos de Belas (Rua Dr. Malheiros 18, Belas)

While not in Sintra proper, this historic pastry shop in the village of Belas, still within the Sintra municipality, is worth the detour for those curious to taste one of the region’s lesser-known sweet treasures: fofos de Belas. Originally called fartos de creme, these sponge cakes filled with egg cream and dusted with sugar have been baked in the same wood-fired oven since 1850. The recipe remains unchanged for generations, and the name fofos (meaning “fluffy”) perfectly captures their texture, similar to a more widespread Portuguese pão de ló, one of the country’s most well-known conventual cakes. Beloved by Lisboetas on Sunday outings since the 19th century, they may not be as famous as travesseiros or pastéis de nata, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t as good!

The wines of Sintra – Colares Region

Located between the Sintra Mountains and the Atlantic coast, the Colares wine region is one of the most unusual and intriguing in all of Portugal. Arguably, it is also one of the most misunderstood. Colares is one of the country’s smallest and most endangered DOCs (Denominação de Origem Controlada – or “controlled designation of origin”), producing wines that are distinctive, just like the landscape they come from.

Because of the defiant territory, Collares is all about old-school viticulture. Here, vines grow in deep, sandy soils just a few hundred meters from the crashing waves of the Atlantic. The growth of the vineyards is heavily influenced by the salty winds, even if they enjoy a certain protection by the dry stone walls. Overall, the conditions are harsh, making winemaking not impossible but certainly challenging, something that contributes to the character of Colares’ wines.

One of the reasons Colares has achieved almost cult status among wine lovers is that it’s home to ungrafted vines, some over 100 years old. When the phylloxera epidemic devastated European vineyards in the 19th century, it couldn’t survive in Colares’ sandy soils. While other regions had to graft their vines onto resistant American rootstock (just like they did with Pico wine from the Azores), Colares carried on with its original vitis vinifera plants, making these some of the rarest heritage vines in Europe today.

The star of red Colares wine is Ramisco, a late-ripening grape grown only here. It produces wines that are pale in color but incredibly tannic, with high acidity and serious aging potential. Young Ramisco can feel austere, but give it ten or twenty years (yes, really), and it evolves into something elegant, earthy and wonderfully complex. Think dried red fruit, leather, salty sea air, and forest floor – a taste that truly encapsulates the terroir and essence of Sintra!

For whites, the region uses Malvasia de Colares, which yields textured, mineral wines with citrus, saline and herbal notes. These whites often pair beautifully with seafood, strong cheeses like goat, and even vegetarian dishes, and unlike the reds, they’re easier to enjoy young.

Despite its proximity to Sintra, Colares wine isn’t always easy to find unless you know where to look. While eating out in Sintra, we’d encourage you to ask for it, so that restaurateurs give it more importance than they do today, often in favor of more broadly commercialized labels, such as those from the Alentejo and Douro, which usually offer more affordable options.

Here are some great places to taste and learn more about Colares wine:

Adega Regional de Colares (Alameda Cel. Linhares de Lima 32, Colares)

If you’re curious about local wine while in Sintra, a visit to Adega Regional de Colares is well worth the short trip to Colares. Founded in 1931, this is Portugal’s oldest wine cooperative and still the main hub for winemaking in the region. It brings together small-scale producers who grow native grapes like Ramisco and Malvasia de Colares, using traditional, labor-intensive methods. The winery is located in its original building, where you can join a guided tour, do a tasting, or simply stop by the shop to purchase a bottle to take home. The guided experiences include someone who will tell you more about the history of winemaking in the region as well as share insights about the winemaking process. At the winery itself you’ll have the chance to taste older vintages you won’t usually find elsewhere, as these are made in such tiny quantities. To make the most of your visit, check the available experiences and make sure to book ahead!

Viúva Gomes (Largo Comendador Gomes da Silva 2 & 3, Almoçageme)

In the quiet village of Almoçageme, just minutes from the Sintra coast, Viúva Gomes offers one of the most rewarding introductions to the world of Colares wines. The winery is housed in a striking early 19th-century building covered in traditional green and white tiles, and its name has to do with its original founder, who took over the business in the 1800s and made it thrive. Today, the Baeta family (now in its fourth and fifth generation) continues that legacy with the clear mission to preserve the unique character of Colares wines. Their focus lies on small, organic vineyards scattered across different micro-terroirs within the demarcated region, from sandy plots near the sea to limestone-rich soils influenced by the nearby Serra de Sintra. The wines are made with minimal intervention, using native yeasts and traditional methods. Their organized wine tastings usually include both current releases as well as rare bottles aged for decades in the family’s private cellar, some dating as far back as 1934! The group tasting experiences take place weekly or, if you book privately (via email), they can be organized to suit your schedule.

Loja do Vinho (Praça da República 3)

If you’re not able to visit a vineyard, this excellent wine shop near the National Palace of Sintra offers a well curated selection of Portuguese wines, including bottles from Colares. It’s a good place to grab a bottle to taste later at home or even while in town, if by any chance you decide to do a picnic in the Sintra hills. Foodies will be happy here besides the wine as Loja do Vinho also sells local cheeses and cured meat, tinned sardines, and preserves. If you don’t exactly feel like a picnic outside, you can also sample all of these here, while sipping a nice glass of wine in a relaxed intimate setting.

Before we send you off into the mists of Sintra, here are a few final insights to make your visit smoother, more meaningful, and more respectful:

– Avoid the rush: if you’re going for the day, try to arrive early (first trains leave Rossio by 7AM) and plan your route carefully. Visit the major sites either right when they open or closer to closing time to avoid crowds. And allow for time to improvise and go with the flow too… Sintra deserves it and so do you!

– Bring layers of clothing: do not expect the weather in Sintra to be anything like in Lisbon. You may be leaving a very hot Lisbon and arriving at a damp and cool Sintra. But this can change any second too, so layers always work best around here, even more so if you’re planning to hit a trail.

– Be respectful of nature: stay on marked trails when hiking and don’t take “souvenirs” like flowers, moss or stones. Sintra’s UNESCO status includes its natural heritage.

– Dig deeper: read Eça de Queirós’ Os Maias or Lord Byron’s Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage to see how Sintra has been romanticized through literature.

As you explore Sintra, remember that this part of Portugal is of course beautiful, but it also has a lot of stories to tell. Bring your curiosity and a healthy appetite and make the most of your explorations. And don’t forget to celebrate your trip to Sintra with a nice glass of wine from Colares!

Article by :

Zara Quiroga (freelance food writer and food & cultural leader at Oh! My Cod Pico Trips)